For Play not a slam-bam experience

April 25, 9:30 AMSonoma County ExaminerLaura McHale Holland

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I'd better fess up. I'm an unreliable food writer. During endless childhood school days, I salivated for tuna casserole, my stepmother's Friday night specialty. And today I remember the potato chip encrusted, mushroom soup-slathered monstrosity with fondness. So, another M.F.K.Fisher, I'll never be.

But Jim treated me to lunch yesterday at Sam's For Play Cafe & Catering, a cheerful, blue and white eatery in Santa Rosa's Roseland, and it's worth a shout out.

I mean, how can you have a bad time when the fella who greets you and takes your drink order is, according to his badge, "Art E. Choke"? Shortly after, Choke brought our drinks (a Coke,  for Jim and a perfectly blended Arnold Palmer for me), our waitress "Diana Hunger" took our order: a bacon burger ($8.95) and a taco salad (also $8.95).

A note on the menu said, "If you're not served in 10 minutes ... relax. You'll be served in 15 or maybe 20 minutes. All items are cooked to order. You will taste the difference." So, to pass the time, we checked out the knickknacks on the cornices, antique license plates, signs and framed articles on the walls.

Our food arrived within 10 minutes. The portions were ample, the ingredients fresh and flavorful. Homemade salsa came on the side with my salad. Hunger said, "Try it if you dare." I didn't dare, but maybe you will.

The joint's at 1024 Sebastopol Road in Santa Rosa. Drop in Monday through Saturday 6 a.m. to 3 p.m. and Sunday 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. It'll likely be mobbed during Cinco de Mayo festivities, so brace yourself, or go to the eatery's alternate Santa Rosa location at 2630 Cleveland Ave. For more info about this business begun 24 years ago by a veteran waitress, visit www.samsforplaycafe.com.