
Fort Des Moines
It is impossible to talk about black history in Des Moines without exploring the story of Fort Des Moines.
Built in 1901, the Fort was an unused U.S. Army cavalry post until the onset of WW I, when the Army finally succumbed to pressure to allow blacks to enlist and the first en masse black infantries—the 25th Infantry prisoner guard, 11th Cavalry, 2nd Cavalry, 6th Cavalry, 9th and 10th Buffalo Soldiers Cavalries and the 24th and 25th Infantries--began to arrive.
After training here, the Army's first officer candidate class for African American men graduated as captains or lieutenants, as part of the 17th Provisional Training Regiment, in 1917.
The Fort played an integral role in the war effort again during WWII, when it became the designated site for training and commissioning of the first female troops and officers for non-combat duty, many of those African American women eventually serving abroad. This group was called the first Women's Army Auxiliary Corps (WAAC), and later renamed the Women's Army Corps (WAC).
Today the facility is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and is an international tourist attraction called the Fort Des Moines Museum & Education Center. Their mission is to “to preserve, promote, and perpetuate the heritage of service, sacrifice and risk taken by the black men of WWI and the women of WWII” through a wide range of exhibits, educational programming and special events.
One of the first things to capture your attention are the grounds, meticulously maintained as they would have been during use by the Army, reflecting the grandeur, pride and dedication to preserving these momentous pages of history.
Across from the main building is a beautiful reflecting pool leading up to an impressive monument to the black officers and WAACs. Underway now is a project where the reflecting pool and monument will be surrounded by a new Walk of Honor where individuals, members of the military past and present, law enforcement officials and others can sponsor inscribed bricks and granite pavers, as part of the legacy of the Fort.
On one side of the grounds, there are granite walls inscribed with the names of those first graduate captains and lieutenants and WAAC officers, and a chapel in the distance.
Inside the 20,000 square-foot facility visitors will find an impressive array of exhibits encompassing the various military contributions by blacks and women from the Revolutionary War through WWII, period art, artifacts, hands-on displays, interactive film and video displays, archival photographs and more. The visual presentation is stunning, aptly capturing the historical chronology, psychology and cultural sentiment of the day.
Adrienne Windley, director of development and marketing for Fort Des Moines said that the facility helps to dispel the myth that “there are no Black people in Iowa.”
“[Fort Des Moines] was the West Point of the Midwest and the largest cavalry post in the nation,” she said, “and when you put that all together you don’t put that with Des Moines.”
After the Army discontinued use of the facility, it remained unoccupied for many years - headed for the bulldozer, Windley said. However, many came to its rescue, desiring to preserve this unique and extraordinary period of history for generations to come.
Today, many influential African American women and men serve on the Board of Directors and in other capacities for Fort Des Moines. “These ‘soldiers’ are leading the charge to ensure that this history, not only with African American soldiers but also the women, is not covered up,” Windley explained. “People need to know about the great diversity, for example, of the WAACs who in 1942 consisted of African American, Jewish and Hispanic women. There was more of a sisterhood with all of the women here, even though there could have been an issue with African American males in the (Army’s) officer ranks.”
In addition to visiting the grounds and facilities, visitors are also invited to attend the multifarious series of events that take place here each month.
According to Windley, out of town visitors are not the only ones who can learn about the history here.
“My agenda with this museum is keeping people connected. I’m hoping to bring all people in so they can see the history that happened in their own town. There’s so much and it’s so rich.”
Iowa Hall of Pride
Another great source of pride in Des Moines is as the home of the Iowa Hall of Pride.
Holding to its mission of “Educating the future, preserving the past and celebrating the accomplishments of all Iowans,” the Hall offers a unique, sports-themed experience that immerses visitors into the history of Iowa’s athletics, academics, and arts. The close to 30 interactive exhibits here are impressive, encompassing 230-plus interviews with outstanding Iowans, video footage, thousands of trivia questions and more.
The Iowa Experience Theater is a good place to start by viewing an introductory film about the various sports in the state, Olympics and beyond, and the famous Iowans who participated in them.
In the Hall of Heroes, two reading walls offer interactive experiences via videos, real interviews and text about numerous Iowa and international personalities such as scientist George Washington Carver; international opera star and musician Simon Estes; Robert D. Ray, the long-running state Governor from 1969 to 1983; and NASA astronaut and biochemistry researcher, Peggy Whitson, just to name a few.
In the world of sports, delve into exhibits including the Special Olympics Kiosk, the Quarterback Challenge and those celebrating recent summer Olympians LoLo Jones, a hurdler from Iowa, and gymnast Shawn Johnson.
This is just the beginning of the intriguing, educational and enlightening experience at the Iowa Hall of Pride.
Where to stay in town
Des Moines offers a wide range of accommodation options from small motels to bed and breakfast inns, boutique lodging, family-suites and luxury hotels. Comfort Inn, Hampton, Best Western, Hilton, Motel 6, Candlewood Suites and Ramada Inns are just a few of the nationwide representations.
Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Renaissance Savery (a Marriot property), is actually named in part after a Des Moines businessman from the late 1800s. The hotel, which has been rebuilt several times over the years, came into prominence here when it served as the home of the WAACs during WWII. Some 72,000 WAACs lodged here during their training from 1942 to 1945.
Today the Renaissance Savery remains an elegant architectural landmark in the heart of downtown, offering sophisticated and relaxing luxury accommodations with all of the comforts of home. In addition to the spacious rooms and comfy beds (among the best I have ever slept on), the hotel features a health club with a large indoor pool, whirlpool, steam room and sauna and several dining options.
The overall atmosphere is very tranquil and inviting and the customer service - exceptional.
Des Moines was really an unexpected surprise, particularly in terms of black history, which only reinforces my resolve to explore and enjoy all that the world has to offer, both near and far.