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Madera winery declares any "Port" in the storm
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There is something sweet and volatile going in the exact center of the California: winemakers are producing high quality Port.
Madera is home to Ficklin Vineyards, a winery synonymous with fortified Port wine since 1945.
During the 1930s and 1940s, the University of California-Davis was testing the grape varieties used in the production of Portugal’s premium red dessert wines under California’s growing conditions. The San Joaquin Valley showed promise for the spread of these varietals and the Ficklin family became interested in growing wine grapes. In 1944, the family grafted these test cuttings onto their established root stock; the experiment was successful. They also had decided the winery would produce only Port.
“We are the oldest port winery in California,” said tasting room host Stephanie Farina. “The ‘granddaddy’ and flagship of the winery is our Tinta, which is a blend of four Portuguese varietals which come from the original 1940 vines.”
The winery does not usually vintage their Port, they use an ancient “Solera” process to produce a blend that is consistent in character year after year. Mirroring the Portuguese method, some of the prior year’s crush is held back as needed with each succeeding vintage. This means there is some of the first wine ever produced in each bottle of Tinta Port sold. Ficklin’s annual production is just under 10,000 cases of the non-vintage Tinta Port.
The grapes are dry-farmed and receive water two or three times a year. This produces a more intense flavor in the fruit.
Winery owner Peter Ficklin said the European Union has limited the use of geographically significant names on the use of wine bottles and through a 2006 trade agreement with the United States the EU will not approve any wine label with the word “Port” on it.
“Fortunately many of our labels are grandfathered in, and we are allowed to continue to use them as is,” he said. “Many wineries wishing to add a Port to their line-up have to use fanciful names now, instead of the Port terminology.”
In addition to producing fortified port wine, it also sells other sweets: chocolate Port sauce and chocolate raspberry Port sauce. Prices range from $15 for Old Vine Tinta to $50 for a 20-year-old Tawny Port.
The tasting room is open daily from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. and tasting is free.
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