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Road Trip: Beer tour of wine country
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“Staycation” is an ugly word, but for some - today’s economic times necessitate trying to travel locally. That’s why hitting the road is so popular in America, creeping gas prices be damned. Grab a friend, spouse, kids, dogs, a suitcase and cooler - throw them in the trunk (not the dog, of course) and go.Here’s a fun tour I created called a Beer Tour of Wine Country through my local Northern California area full of gorgeous scenery, excellent roads, fine dining, nice people and – great beer. Some of the best breweries in the world exist in Wine Country, and preferably driven (responsibly) by motorcycle or in your favorite convertible, Highway 128 marks the spine of this adventure. So sit back with a cold one, and enjoy my tale. Then do it yourself and tell them I sent ya.
Fortunately, the craft beer movement is alive and well throughout Northern California, with many breweries, brew pubs and fine beer spots scattered across this wide area. Toss in excellent roads, gorgeous scenery, a cool car and my lovely wife Colleen, and I had the ingredients for a splendid mission – discover the best beer spots in wine country.
My quest was not to be the definitive, but merely an attempt to test out a shiny Montego Blue BMW Z4 Roadster 3.0 si while driving around the region sampling brews – in moderation, of course. I began in my home county of Napa, then headed north into Mendocino County and the amazing, windy, redwood rich Highway 128. Stopping at the Pacific, I then pointed further north in Mendocino then zipping back down, down, down into Sonoma County and back east into Napa. All told I hit a dozen spots, most were breweries or brew pubs and also a couple of a wine/beer havens. Drove some 600 miles and loved every minute. Colleen did too.
First up, we put the top down (it raised smoothly, and tucked away below the back deck in about twenty seconds) and headed west, then north on a glorious Napa afternoon. The Silverado Brewing Company was my initial destination north of the charming town of St. Helena. Colleen had her favorite hat on, and I decided to drive glabrous and unadorned; the sun felt wonderful and there would be plenty of time for hats later on.
The Z4’s Bridgestone Potenza 225/40/18’s in the front 255/35/18’s in the rear effortlessly hugged the windy curves approaching Napa Valley. The 3.0 DOHC 24 Valve inline six seemed a bit sluggish at first, (I was driving the automatic version) but soon the BMW found its rhythm, and together we made a precise, fast, road handling team. It had rained the night before and the post rain air was fresh and sunny in a typical California fashion.
First up, is the Silverado Brewing Company, located on Highway 29 in St. Helena, near the top of Napa Valley. This brewery sits inside the site of the old Freemark Abbey Winery, constructed in 1895. The outside tables, although right on Highway 29 are an ideal place to meet friends and sample their fine beers. Their hoppy Pale Ale is my favorite, with nods to the appealing Oatmeal Stout and the Maibock, a Munich styled amber lager. Soon, Napa winemaker Ken Fortner, (owner of Road 31 Wine Co) dropped by in his beautifully restored 1966 mint green Ford pickup truck. “Not only does it take a lot of beer to make great wine, but you can tell a lot about a winemaker by the beer in his hands during harvest,” said Fortner. Pretty good pub cuisine too.The next stop is the Calistoga Inn, a mere seven miles up the road. Its outdoor beer garden/restaurant is a popular spot, and the divey bar is a blast from the past. Calistoga Inn’s best is their dark red ale, a serious, heavy, malty brew. This is also a fantastic “Rainy day” bar. Dark, woody, brooding and timeless. Lots of winemakers and others hang out here.
Soon we departed, across the valley this time, to the incredible Calistoga Ranch – a must visit if you can afford it. A real Wow, 
my Z4 fit right in – a hit with the valets. The Calistoga Ranch’s accommodations are dramatic examples of indoor/outdoor living; set in a bucolic pine forest, this is significant “bungalow” pampering for adults. Each and every design detail fits and works, perfectly. I particularly enjoyed the private outdoor shower. With its wine caves, serene setting, Lakehouse private dining restaurant and attentive service, Calistoga Ranch is an amazing property with few, if any peers.
my Z4 fit right in – a hit with the valets. The Calistoga Ranch’s accommodations are dramatic examples of indoor/outdoor living; set in a bucolic pine forest, this is significant “bungalow” pampering for adults. Each and every design detail fits and works, perfectly. I particularly enjoyed the private outdoor shower. With its wine caves, serene setting, Lakehouse private dining restaurant and attentive service, Calistoga Ranch is an amazing property with few, if any peers.by Bob Ecker
All Photos c. Bob Ecker
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