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Snakes on a Plain Part 2
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Snakes on a Plain Part 2
By Bob Ecker
Narcisse is situated in what’s known as the “Interlake region,” between Lake Winnipeg and Lake Manitoba, two huge inland bodies of water. This area contains plenty of food and water for wildlife, but critically, vast underground limestone caves; ideal dens where the snakes can survive the long, cold Manitoba winters below the frost line. Incidentally, the red-sided garter snake is the most northerly reptile in the world._410.jpg)
The snakes emerge after a long rest, typically in late May, when the Manitoba spring has finally arrived. After visiting a few other similar pits, Jacques took Don and me to an unmarked site off a nearby dirt road where we met Bob Mason, a Professor of Zoology at Oregon State University visiting with a few graduate students. They were tagging snakes for study. “We’re continuing to unravel the fantastic story of the snakes of Narcisse,” said Mason.
Here, thousands upon thousands of snakes were cavorting. It was unbelievable! I looked at Don and we both shuddered at the preposterousness of this situation. Massive snake balls writhed on ledges, tree limbs, on plants and on the ground. Some snake balls slowly oozed down rocks, or rolled in the grass. Some groups seemed as tangled as balls of twine and couldn’t get themselves unraveled. Professor Mason estimated that there were about 35,000 snakes at one pit alone and 250,000 in the general area.
These snakes emit a musky odor when aroused, which hung heavy in the warm air. The smell must be snakey cologne, say “Calvin…for Reptiles.” After the males mate, they then go and look for something to eat. (They love frogs) It was like watching nature’s bar scene, and we all noticed the similarities between men and the male red-sided garter. Scientists are studying snake DNA, mating behavior, paternity, plus the red-sided garter’s unremitting sexual appetite. It is also estimated that approximately 10% of the male snakes are gay.
While we stood on a path between two pits, (I nicknamed it the snake highway) dozens of red-sided garter snakes traveled back and forth, from one den to another. Snakes moved right past us, sometimes going around or through our legs, sometimes stopping at our feet and giving us a long look before moving on. Don and I occasionally jumped, surprised by a snake zipping by. We watched as healthy female raced by, chased by two frisky males, eager to rub their chins on her belly. (This reportedly gets her in the mood) Bourgeois suggested that I go down into one of the pits, to get a good close-up photo, but I respectfully declined.
Besides attracting tourists, local school children are brought to the Dens on field trips. The kids I saw screamed, whelped, and whooped. The children either crowded around or backed away - but all appeared fascinated. About 2,500 students from Manitoba schools visited the Narcisse Snake Dens out of some 45,000 area visitors last year. Naturalist Jacques Bourgeois was smiling, clearly pleased by so much biological activity. “At times, there are so many snakes that it feels like you’re standing inside a bowl of live spaghetti!” He’s right, a living, reptilian, writhing bowl of spaghetti. Watch your step.
c. Bob Ecker 2009
If you go:
Winnipeg is actually a pretty city, sort of like a small version of Chicago. It’s fun (in the summer) with a surprising art and culture scene.
Many airlines fly in to Winnipeg including Air Canada, www.aircanada.com Westjet, www.westjet.com and Alaska/Horizon. www.alaskaair.com
The Narcisse Snake Pits are approximately 80 miles north of Winnipeg. Wear rugged shoes; bring insect repellent and a camera.
Also see:
Photos by Bob Ecker
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