Reaching the unreachable: Schwa

July 9, 2:25 PMChicago Dining ExaminerEmily Szopa

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Chef Michael Carlson, at your service

After Schwa reopened back in February, I thought it best to wait a month to try and get a reso. Even then—as anyone attempting to secure a table at the BYO restaurant has likely experienced—I continued to reach the same recording: “The mailbox belonging to Schwa restaurant is full. Please press 1 to disconnect.”

I kept calling back. I tried different days. I called early, I called late. Nada. Not even the chance to leave a message, let alone speak to a live person. Needless to say, my enthusiasm waned after running into the same brick wall again and again.

Then, three months later, I was reminded by my dining-companion-to-be that we had never managed to schedule our meal. Determined, and feeling that the reminder was somehow auspicious, I dialed the number yet again. On the fifth ring: “The mailbox belonging to…” !!! Frustrated, I vowed not to call back. I would not be heartbroken again. The now highly-anticipated meal would have to wait…some more.

Of course, calling it a “meal” is to use the term loosely; the tasting menu goes beyond the traditional “meal.” If you’re looking to go home with a belly full of burger or you revel in the post-meal, I’m-way-too-stuffed-to-even-move nap, then places like Alinea, Schwa, Avenues, etc., may not be where you want to head. For a beer and nachos, I go to Tuman’s. For inspiration, I head to one of these culinary wonderlands.

Beet, Bacon and Chocolate amuse

As described on its own website, Schwa is more of a “revolutionary eating experience.” Those who delight in the idea of food as art, and vice-versa, will swoon over the 9-course tasting menu ($105). A 3-course menu ($55) is also available, but if you’re already there, why not go the whole nine? Either way, take one look and you’ll understand the persistence behind my ill-fated efforts.

The thing about trying to get through to make a reservation is that the 20-something seat restaurant is staffed solely by Executive Chef Michael Carlson and his sous chefs. They take the reservations, seat guests, bring water to tables and even serve you the dishes that they themselves created. As Carlson himself said in an interview with the New York Times, "Everyone who works here is a chef, and everyone is also a dishwasher." The fact that their voicemail box is constantly full is evidence not only of the restaurant’s popularity, but also of the staff’s overwhelming responsibilities. 

“Carlson is usually the first person you meet when you walk in and the last person you speak to on the way out. And—who'da thunk it—Carlson is actually good at this meet-and-greet stuff, with a laid-back charm and an obvious passion for the menu. And who better to describe the intricacies of a dish than the man who designed it?” wrote Phil Vettel of the Chicago Tribune. 

After all, dishes such as "parsnip custard with ice-wine vinegar caramel, candied sweetbreads and a lavender lecithin bubble" might need some explaining.

Carlson's signature dish: Quail egg ravioli.

So why am I telling you about this now? Well, this morning I finally managed to get through and made a reservation for mid-August (Seems Wednesday nights are the most open, res-wise.). I realize that, by now, Schwa’s reopening is old old old news, but I’m really excited and can’t wait to share my experience with you. For those who have already had the opportunity to visit the reopened restaurant, please feel free to leave your impressions in a comment below! Wine suggestions are also welcome.

 Photo credits: (above left) William Zbaren for the New York Times; (at left and above right) Starchefs.com