The search for the perfect Cubano (sandwich)

July 8, 7:35 AMChicago Dining ExaminerEmily Szopa

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Classic Cubano / photo by: Armida Amador 

Comfort food comes in all forms, depending on what sort of comfort you’re seeking. Sick? Chicken noodle soup (or miso, in my case) will cure what ails ya.  Feeling nostalgic about your childhood? PB&J (grape, please) will send your mind to the jungle gym for recess. Missing your folks? Well, that could mean meatloaf for some, lasagna for others. Having a bad day? Chocolate…or ice cream…or a sandwich Cubano with pineapple soda.

I’m telling you, nothing kicks the blues better than this delicious variation on the common ham-and-cheese sandwich, accompanied by the perfect (non-alcoholic) beverage. Of course, you don’t have to be having a bad day to enjoy this meal; I’ve found it suits any mood just fine.

A traditional Cuban sandwich consists of roasted pork, glazed ham, mustard, swiss cheese and pickles on Cuban bread. Big deal, right? Well, at first glance, the bread itself appears to be no different from French bread, but once it’s been pressed on the plancha (like a panini grill, but flat), its fragrant sweetness is coaxed forward, identifying it as distinctly Cuban.  Recipe-wise, the only significant difference between French or Italian bread and Cuban bread is the use of a starter and the addition of lard, which creates a tender, rather than chewy, interior. It's this grilled bread that makes a Cubano a Cubano.

Note the sign, it's easy to miss this spot! / photo by: Jaime E. 

I discovered my love for the eponymous sandwich only a year or so ago, so I need your help with this one: Have I inadvertently found the best Cuban sandwiches in Chicago?  I have yet to eat one that hasn’t been absolutely satisfying, but I’ve also been loyal to the first two places I tried, so although it seems unlikely that these two just happen to be the best, the reviews I’ve read seem to support my conclusion.

The restaurants in question? Cafeteria Marianao (Humboldt Park/Logan Square) and Habana Libre (West Town).

My affair with the humble sandwich began at Marianao, a small café on Milwaukee just east of California. I’ll admit it probably helps the ordering process if you can speak Spanish, but I took eight years of French, so I stick to English and my order always comes out just fine. There are only seven items on the menu, so you’d probably have to try to get it wrong. You’re gonna have to pack some patience though, because it takes awhile to cook every sandwich to order and there’s likely to be a line.

Unfortunately, Marianao’s hours (various websites say they close at 7pm, but I have yet to see them open past 3 or 4pm) don’t jive with my work schedule, so I can only make it there on the weekends. In seeking out a surrogate, I found that Habana Libre, on Chicago Ave. just a few blocks east of Ashland is a fine substitute. Plus it’s a restaurant, so there are actual tables at which you can sit, as opposed to jockeying for counter space at Marianao. Habana Libre has a full menu, too (I understand the jibarito is also fantastic) and the Cubanos here have a bit more meat on ‘em, but they also cost twice as much (only $2.75 at Marianao). Both places have Jupina, the pineapple soda I’ve yet to find a better alternative for pairing with my sandwich, but if you're more of a coffee drinker I'd also recommend the Cafe con Leche at either spot.

Outside Con Sabor Cubano 

So you tell me, is there a more authentic Cuban sandwich in Chicago?I’ve heard El Cubanito (Logan Square) and Con Sabor Cubano! (Lincoln Square) are serious contenders as well, so I’m off to check these out soon, but additional suggestions are certainly welcome.

Photo credit (left): Zach Freeman of Centerstage Chicago