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Successful seed sprouting basics
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Sprouting your own seeds at home saves money
and offers a far wider selection than the seedlings
at your local nursery.
Vegetable and flower seedlings are usually available at the local nursery. But the supply is usually limited to only a few of the most popular (and generally boring varieties). In addition, anything you’ll want in abundance can be quite costly.
You can also save a significant sum by sprouting your own seedlings at home. You have a feast of choices if you select from the abundance of online and mail order catalogs. Most nurseries also stock far more seeds than they offer as seedlings. But buyer beware. Not all varieties do well in all locations. If you want a sure-thing, consult your local agriculture extension service about the varieties they recommend for your local growing conditions.
Here are some easy-to-follow tips for successful seed sprouting.
- Start seedlings about four to eight weeks before you plan to transplant them into the garden.
- Use compressed peat pellets or a soilless growing medium containing peat, perlite and vermiculite. Good sprouting mediums are available by the bag from nurseries and even at discount and grocery stores.
- Many types of containers can be used if you are using loose soil-less planting medium. Yogurt cups, egg carton containers, origami folded newspapers, trimmed milk cartons—anything that will hold the soil and seed. Make sure there is a hole in the bottom of any container you use and place them on a water drip tray to prevent stains on floors and furniture.
- Plant seeds according to the seed packet instructions. If there are no clear directions, a good rule of thumb is to plant seeds two to three times deeper than their width. Many of the larger seeds benefit from soaking overnight in water before being planted. A few types of seeds also require a period of cold (refrigeration) before they will germinate. When in doubt, read package directions or do an online search for more detailed instructions.
- Carefully label all your seeds as you plant them. It can be extremely difficult to tell one seedling from the other if you’re not familiar with their growth habits.
- It is best to water seedlings from below to prevent dislodging the tender seeds as they are setting their first tender roots. Water when the sprouting medium is dry to the touch, but be careful not to over water. Do no let seedling containers stand in water for more than a few minutes.
- Cover seedling containers with clear plastic and put them in a fairly warm place until the seedlings emerge. Many people use the top of their refrigerator. There are also special seed warming mats available if you want to make an investment in future seed sprouting.
- Once the seeds emerge, remove the plastic covering and put them under fluorescent bulbs or in a very bright sunny window for 14 to 16 hours each day. Temperatures should remain at 70 to 75 degrees during the day and no less than 60 to 65 degrees at night. I find the fluorescent lights work better than a sunny window. You can rig up an inexpensive system with plastic chains, a shop light and bulbs at the local hardware store.
- To prevent the seedlings from getting leggy, keep lights no more than one to two inches from the plant.
- The first leaves to appear are called cotyledons, which store the food reserves for the growing seed. These will probably wither and die as the true leaves appear in a few days. Thin and transplant seedings into larger containers after their true leaves appear.
- Thin seedlings according to the package directions. Rather than pulling excess seedlings with your fingers, which can disrupt the tender roots of the seeds you wish to keep, snip the excess seedlings with small scissors.
- Feed seedlings every two weeks with a weak fertilizer solution.
- A couple of weeks prior to transplanting into the garden, begin the process of hardening them off—acclimating them to the cruel realities of outdoor life. Put them outdoors for a couple of hours a day, first starting in shaded areas and making sure that they don’t dry out in the sun. You can also introduce a gentle breeze to toughen them up by placing a fan in the area where they are sprouting. Gradually increase their exposure to the great outdoors as the transplant date nears.
- Transplant seedlings into the garden after the last average frost date. You can determine the date for your area by calling your local agricultural extension office. Information is also available online. NOAA has maps, although they can be difficult to read. Several seed companies, such as Victory Seed, also have some first and last frost date information. It’s best to check at least a couple of sources to get a true picture of when you can expect the last frost. Even then, keep your eye on the weather and be prepared to cover your newly transplanted seedlings in case the temperatures should drop too low.
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