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Diving into Bonaire (Part Two)

February 22, 6:36 PMChicago International Travel ExaminerDennis D. Jacobs
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Alexandra Paul in Bonaire
Former "Baywatch" star Alexandra Paul, here competing in the Bonaire 10K EcoSwim, is one of the many tourists to discover there's more to do on the island than scuba diving and snorkeling. PHOTO COURTESY: Ian Murray  

While most Bonaire visitors will spend the bulk of their time playing in the water around the islands, there are plenty of activities to enjoy on dry land, as well, including hiking and biking. Dry land is not just a figure of speech on Bonaire. The island lies outside the hurricane belt and the climate is arid. As a result, cacti flourish here. Cactus plants are so plentiful, the inhabitants use them to create fences.
 

Washington Slagbaai National Park, on the northern end of Bonaire, is a good place to view cacti and the other flora and fauna of the island. Iguanas and a wide variety of tropical birds like to hang out here.
 

“You even have a chance of spotting the Lora here,” says George Thode, the park’s chief ranger for more than 26 years. “This bird is a little bigger than a parakeet and is an endangered species. That’s why the Lora is protected on Bonaire. Loras live off the fruits and seeds from the trees and cacti in the park.”
 

Speaking of tropical birds, Bonaire also is well known for its large population of flamingos. These can be seen in low-lying areas of the national park, especially at Goto Lake.
 

At the opposite end of the height scale in the park is Mount Brandaris, 790 feet above sea level. The entire island can be viewed from its summit, including the world’s largest land sailing track at Piedra Cruz (or Krus).
 

The figure-eight track was constructed from calcium sulphate donated by Cargill Salt Bonaire. Prevailing trade winds make Bonaire an ideal site for this sport, and the lightweight, three-wheeled Blokarts (get it? Blow-kart?) can reach speeds up to 70 mph. For about $50, Landsailing Bonaire will provide 15 minutes of instruction, then let you zip around the track for an hour. The track originally was 635 yards long, but is in the process of being expanded to 2,190 yards.
 

Bonaire is not big on museums, but history buffs still will find things here to pique their interest. The original inhabitants of the island, Arawak Indians, left paintings and petroglyphs in some of the island’s many caves.
 

The natives were enslaved by the Spanish in the early 1500s and taken to work in the copper mines of Hispaniola. A few later returned when the Spanish decided that Bonaire might be suitable for a cattle plantation. Some goats and donkeys also arrived, and some of their descendents, now wild, still wander the island.
 

The Dutch had other plans for Bonaire and after a series of conflicts with the Spanish, took control of the island in 1636. The Netherlands had to fight more wars to retain ownership of Bonaire, and in 1815 they built Fort Oranje, which still stands in the island’s largest town, Kralendijk. The pretty little pastel buildings of Kralendijk represent one of the good points of Dutch rule. One of the bad points is represented by the slave huts that still stand in parts of the island, especially near the salt flats. The Dutch brought slaves to the island from Africa primarily to work in the production of salt. When the Netherlands abolished slavery in 1863, the island’s economy collapsed. It was almost a century before salt production resumed in earnest.
 

Tourism gained increasing importance to Bonaire’s economy in the 20th Century. On Bonaire, the success of tourism is closely tied to environmental preservation efforts. This year, the island will mark 40 years of government conservation efforts (dating to the founding of Washington Slagbaai National Park) with a series of celebrations that will kickoff March 15, according to Bonaire Director of Tourism Ronella Croes.
 

Tying in nicely with the anniversary is the island’s plan to have 100 percent of its energy production come from sustainable energy within five years.
 

“This is one of the huge projects that the island is working on,” Croes notes. “It’s coming along as planned.”
 

By the end of this year, wind turbines will supply 44 percent of the island’s energy needs. The remainder will be met through the use of biodiesel fuels.
 

“If you would describe Bonaire as a person, it’s an active person, very casual, who cares about wellness,” Croes says.
 

That doesn’t mean it’s a person with disdain for the finer things in life, like a good meal.
 

“It’s a small island, but you will be surprised by the number of restaurants we have with different cuisines,” Croes says.
 

For example, Capriccio Ristorante in Kralendijk offers fine Italian food. In Rincon, the Rose Inn has been a popular lunch spot for generations.
 

Although a recent murder trial involving the death of a Dutch woman made international headlines, violent crime on Bonaire is rare and the island has a reputation for being a safe place to visit. There’s no shortage of accommodations to choose from, some with private beaches, like the Plaza Resort Bonaire. And if you feel like really getting into the back to nature spirit of Bonaire, you might want to try the Sorobon Beach Resort, home of the island’s only nude beach.
 

For more info: InfoBonaire, Wikipedia, Geographia
More About: Bonaire

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