So opening day of Coachella 2009 is in the books, with two more full days remaining.
It’s my first time making what has, over the past 10 years, developed into a proverbial indie rock pilgrimage — and summer concert festival season opener — near Palm Springs, California.
And although I’ve attended big festivals before, due to its desert location and impressive annual lineup, Coachella is, in many ways, in a league all of its own.
Having been groomed on several of the bands playing this year’s Coachella in clubs that hold 1000 people or less, I must admit that the size and scope of the vent, as well as the illuminated nighttime carnival atmosphere — think Burning Man “light” — makes the show simultaneously exhilarating and overwhelming.
Being my first time, I have to cop to a few rookie mistakes, or at least reminders of what should have been obvious. Below are five lessons learned at my first day of Coachella, followed by a few performance reviews, and finally a list of acts I hope to see Saturday.
1. I am old
From an informal straw poll conducted by yours truly, and admittedly surveyed in the smaller tents where the younger demographic tends to flock, the average age of the attendee at Coachella is somewhere around 21 or 22. I am 36, and generally okay with that. But while the twentysomethings seemed content to push and shove their way through crowded tents, and sprint from one act to the next, I spent the latter half of the night wishing I was wearing my custom orthotic shoes, instead of flip-flops. Particularly since I thought I was being clever by parking 1.5 miles away to avoid the dreaded late-night bottleneck. Like I said, I’m old.
2. It is crowded
I always knew Coachella drew in the numbers, estimated to be near 150,000 in years past for the weekend, so I have no reason to be surprised by the throngs in attendance. And yet, I still was. The crowd watching Paul McCartney was easily somewhere between 20,000 and 30,000— so many people that even the pair of big screens flanking the stage seemed way off in the distance. Even the Crystal Castles set, held in the smallest tent at 6:40, was packed full. The enormity of the event, held on several acres at Indio’s Empire Polo Club, means that trying to reconnect with friends, especially once night falls, is a daunting proposition. In fact so many people are constantly trying to call each other that while cell phone coverage exists, the circuits tend to get tied up, with text messages sometimes taking an hour or more to get through.
3. It is hot
Again, not a surprise, but nevertheless noteworthy. Once the sun heads down and the heat breaks, the springtime desert weather is essentially perfect. However in the mid to late afternoon, when the sun is high in the sky, the near-100-degree heat can be stifling. Waiting in long lines for will call tickets, alcohol ID bracelets and porta-potties, as well as trying to slither one’s way through a crowded tent to see a band, can all be tests of one’s patience.
4. Covering the event from a journalistic perspective is difficult
Between the heat, the crowds, the rented security guards and the endless noise accompanying several bands performing at any given moment, attempting to arrange interviews, get backstage or even see a performer other than onstage is a seemingly futile task. (Hence the first-person piece you’re reading now.) Also, although a photo pass does allow front-of-stage access during the first three songs, sadly my point-and-shoot digital camera is no match for strobe lights, lasers, or professional cameras with detachable lenses.
5. Conflicting set times equate to a certain competition between artists.
While the artists might never admit to it, there’s no question that Coachella’s five different stages offer a myriad of options at their disposal. And the artists know it, meaning they all bring their “A” game to the festival. Case in point: Austin electro-rockers Ghostland Observatory were up against Morrissey and N.A.S.A, and were sandwiched between Crystal Castles and Girl Talk. But when front man Aaron Behrens and drummer/keyboardist Thomas Ross Turner played a mind-blowing set to an overflowing Sahara Stage, they looking very much as they knew they’d won the battle of the hour.
Artist Impressions
Main Stage:
Paul McCartney
Time: 10 p.m. to 12:30 a.m.
I have to admit, when I first heard McCartney was headlining Coachella, I thought the whole concept was a little, I don’t know, hokey. Don’t get me wrong, I am a huge Beatles fan, and I realize Coachella has gravitated towards signing more mainstream artists over the past few years, including Prince and Roger Waters. But McCartney just didn’t doesn’t fit the demographic. And while there’s little question Sir Paul was the biggest name on the marquee, those in the know understand that Coachella’s bigger draw is the opportunity to catch the many up-and-coming bands playing smaller stages.
Once I’d made up my mind to attend the show, I had a change of heart, and convinced myself that seeing McCartney would be an incredible experience. Maybe I should have trusted my gut. McCartney played several Beatles tunes, including a few of my favorites like “Get Back,” “Hey Jude,” “I’ve Got a Feeling,” and “Something in the Way” — the latter a tribute to George Harrison, who was posthumously awarded a star on Hollywood’s Walk of Fame last week. (On a side note, Harrison’s son Dhani plays on Saturday with his band thenewno2.)
However the middle of McCartney’s set dipped too far into his solo work, music written largely for the Dockers crowd, and as much as I didn’t want to be the pessimistic indie guy, the cheese factor was through the roof. It made it hard to embrace his set, living legend or not.
Morrissey
Time: 8:30 to 9:30
I’ll be honest, I didn’t spend much time at all watching Morrissey, as it conflicted with both Silversun Pickups and Ghostland Observatory. However I did happen to stroll past the main stage as he performed The Smiths’ classic “How Soon Is Now?” from the 1985 album Meat is Murder — the title of which might have something to do with why he reportedly ranted to the crowd, “I can smell burning flesh, and I hope to God it's human,” and “The smell of burning animals is making me sick.”
Franz Ferdinand
Time: 6:35 to 7:25
Not a fan, didn’t bother. Did happen to pass by during their breakthrough hit “Take Me Out.” Seemed like people were enjoying it, could have had something to do with the amazing sunset and Friday meaning legs — and brains — were still fresh.
The Black Keys
Time: 5:20 to 6:10
No surprises: a reliable, bluesy main stage two-man stomp by the duo from Akron, Ohio. If the Keys seem to pop up on every festival in North America, there’s a reason — they don’t disappoint.
The Airborne Toxic Event
Time: 4:05 to 4:55
Touring in support of a strong, self-titled debut album released last year, Los Angeles-based band Airborne Toxic Event — which was named from the Don DeLillo book “White Noise” — played the main stage to a growing afternoon crowd. With their violin and dynamic cast of band members, led by singer and guitarist Mikel Jollett, the band bears a slight thematic resemblance to The Arcade Fire, which is not at all a bad thing.
Side stages
Conor Oberst
Former Bright Eyes singer Conor Oberst is now heading up a new alt-country project. Though the new songs lack some of the emotional punch that Oberst is known for, and longtime fans still yearn to see Oberst alone, onstage, backed by nothing but an acoustic guitar and a hushed crowd, the fact remains — Oberst is a wunderkind, one of the biggest talents to come along in American music in the past 25 years. Surprise: other members of the Mystic Valley Band taking up vocals for a track here and there. Even bigger surprise: they were all actually pretty good.
Silversun Pickups
Los Angeles band SSPU just released its second full-length, Swoon, earlier this week, and had the honor of debuting that material in front of an adoring local crowd just an hour’s drive from home. As expected, the band’s whispery vocals (that always build into crescendos), backed by fuzzy guitars, all translate well through stacks of amplifiers. I’m a big fan of SSPU, although in all the times I’ve seen them live, their sound mix has never seemed right, and Coachella was no exception.
Ghostland Observatory
The surprise set of the night, a unique band of crazed electro thrash by two dudes, a guitar, a keyboard and no doubt several MacBook Pros in the background. Also, they put out arguably the best laser show I’ve ever seen.
The Presets
The Australian dance duo, which occasionally sounds like a revamped Depeche Mode, had the dubious honor of playing opposite McCartney. That didn’t prevent thousands of the younger set to jump around the electronic-infused Sahara Stage while McCartney captivated their parents’ generation.
Day 2
Here are three bands I will try to see on Saturday
Band: Thievery Corporation
Time: 7:40 to 8:30
Draw: Okay, they’re not exactly an up-and-coming band, but the Washington, D.C. based Thievery Corporation is one of my all-time faves. It’s the one act I will be sure to get into position early for.
Major set conflict: Fleet Foxes
Band: Jenny Lewis
Time: 9:50 to 10:40
Draw: Rilo Kiley vocalist has amazing solo material, and I’m curious to see how she performs her intimate music in such a non-intimate setting.
Major set conflict: The Killers
Band: Glasvegas
Time: 6:05 to 6:55
Draw: Alternative Scottish band, hyped by British music rag NME as one of the best bands to come along in years, touring on the strength of retro-sounding single “Geraldine.”
Major set conflict: TV on the Radio
For those headed to the show, and even for those who aren’t, if you haven’t checked out the Coachella iPhone application, you really must. It includes the Coachella 2009 set times schedule, offers a custom Coachooser, an interactive venue map, a friend finder, and a Coachella photo uploader. Best of all, it’s absolutely free.
See you in the water lines…