Saltwater aquariums 101: coral reefer madness

November 7, 6:58 AMBoston Birds and Fish ExaminerGeorge Sommers

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                   Getting high on a reef aquarium

With their vivid colors and otherworldly landscapes, coral reef aquariums fascinate even people who ordinarily woudln't look twice at a fish.

Technological advances have made marine tank maintenance easier than ever, although it’s still more complex than running a freshwater tank. – and the equipment and fish are substantially more expensive.

Coral reefs built made by tiny primitive invertebrates lacking eyes, backbones, brains and legs; but equipped with tentacles to draw in food. “Polyps are the live animals,” explains Paul Sartoris, owner of Union Aquarium and Pet Supplies in Schenectady, New York. “Their waste is coral – the hard, calcium rich residue.” When polyps colonize an area, these deposits build on each other and develop reefs. Biologists have categorized 2500 types or corals. Some corals can be propagated by cuttings, much like live plants.

Some hobbyists have coral only tanks – including yellow and orange polyps, toadstools, pearl bubbles, open brains, leathers and trumpets.  Others supplement the tank with such “inverts” as hermit crabs (which will scavenge algae and other undesirable material) and fire shrimp.

Finding Nemo and friends is the goal of many saltwater enthusiasts. In addition to clownfish; suitable reef denizens include damselfish, gobies, the fairy wrasse, firefish, yellow tangs and the six-line wrasse. Beware: certain fish that live among coral also eat it – including angels, parrotfish and the clown triggerfish.

Commercial seawater mix is clean, consistent and easy to prepare and therefore preferable to bringing buckets of seawater home from the beach. 25% of the water should be changed each month.

The big challenge is maintaining a proper balance of salinity, calcium, pH, etc. Required equipment includes test kits for pH, ammonia, nitrates, calcium and phosphates.

Calcium, which polyps need to build reefs, must be added through drip method or calcium reactor.  The larger the tank, the easier it will be to keep these measures in check.

“Live rock is dead coral that has a coating of bacteria that breaks down nitrates,” explains Mr. Sartoris. “That gives you your biological base.” Aragonite is fossilized coral rock, which also cuts down on harmful nitrates and ammonia. These should be supplemented with a protein skimmer – a type of filter.

“Corals can’t go to their food – food has to come to them,” says Mr. Sartoris. Waves and currents perform this function naturally. “Powerheads” are water pumps that will do this in the aquarium.

Corals need to be kept at 68-82 degrees, so a heater is required. Compact fluorescent lights are sufficient for smaller tanks to nourish the Zooxanthellae algae that nourishes corals with its wastes. Tanks deeper than 24” require metal halide lighting.

“Marine snow”, or plankton; can be purchased as coral food, supplementing such yummies as fish feces and algae. Larger polyps can be handfed small fish, shrimps and snails.

It’s best to start out with 2 or 3 hardy fish, when first establishing a marine tank. “Then gradually start adding coral and inverts,” advises Mr. Sartoris.

Beginners are best advised to start off with a freshwater aquarium before diving into the saltwater commitment.

For more info: georgesommers@yahoo.com See more by this writer on E-How.com, in Mariner Publications'  "Pet Gazette" and in the August '09 edition of "Northeast Antiques Journal".