What is good beer? – Revisited . Capturing character.

July 8, 12:20 PMBeer ExaminerCharlie Papazian

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Capturing the character of environment in
your beer.   Photo Charlie Papazian©2008

Let’s take a look at some of your comments to my questions “What makes good beer?”

Adam says: “Right now, today, I like to drink interesting beer….I drink my homebrew, because, … Its about me and what I'm capable of doing… I'm probably not the typical consumer of beer… If I have a choice I'd go with something brewed on a smaller scale, because I think it will probably taste better/more interesting.”

Adam, I can relate. Big time. When I’m home I enjoy my own homebrewed ales and lagers almost 100% of the time.   I create my homebrews primarily based on great beer experiences I have had throughout the world. My aim when formulating and brewing a batch of beer is to create specific beer flavors, aromas, etc. I also infuse the environment in which I enjoyed the beer into the beer. For example I brew a tasty Czech-style lager. It’s in the tradition of the more malty golden lagers of the Czech Republic. But the fact is these days most Czech pilseners and lagers are drifting towards lightness and “cleanness.” They are lacking the complexity they use to have. But the complexity and soul of the Czech Republic can still be experienced in the rustic environs of many a Czech pub or café. Thus I formulate hops, malt, yeast and water in a way that speaks of the traditional, rustic, full flavored environment in which I enjoyed the “lighter” Czech lagers. Result: Kings and Vagabonds Golden Czech lager. I can feel the art deco Prague café with each sip.  More so than what was in the glass in Prague.

I too, am not your typical consumer of beer.   The truth is that there are very few people in the world that are your “typical” consumer of beer.   National averages have been used way beyond their original intention.   Take for example the fact that America’s small independent craft brewers have about 3.8% of the American market. But there’s another fact that is often never mentioned. There is no national American market. The United States is a group of 50 states and each market has its own regulations, laws, climate and thirst personality. While a place like Oregon has nearly 20% craft brewed market share, perhaps a state in the southeastern U.S. doesn’t make it to 1%. 

            Fact is we are all individuals with personalized tastes in beer. Some of us have learned to appreciate beer flavor, others naturally migrate to more taste.   What the large breweries have done with their mass produced light lagers is to make a “clean” and “refreshing” beverage, by removing most of the beer character. They do this in order not to offend the tremendous variation in palate.    Most beer drinkers who have been introduced to non offending beer character, continue to embrace these brands because of the emotional attachment of the initial good times and memories they’ve experienced.

            It is quite clear to me that if beer enthusiasts reach out and “teach” others about the variety of tastes beer can have, most light lager drinkers can extend their beer drinking experiences to other types of beer.   I know this. 

            Adam also mentions smaller scale = better taste.   There’s something to be said about this.   There is no doubt in my mind that the smaller the scale of brewing the more opportunity to contribute complexity and delicate character. Larger brew sizes have more physical and scientific stuff going on at the nano and macro level that will affect the overall character.   I’ve never seen scientific comparative research done on this subject and I doubt I will. And if I do it doesn’t matter to me because I simply know from experience that there is certain depth of character that can be achieved only with small batch brewing. The larger the batch, the more stress on the process that transforms grain to beer. Small versus large?   One is not necessarily better than the other.   We all have our preferences. Of course this all begs the question: What is small?