Brew in the new - - - Beer in new directions

October 30, 11:21 AMBeer ExaminerCharlie Papazian

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Sam Calagione, Dogfish Head founder
pours his beers in Italy

Lorenzo Dabove    is Italy’s leading beer champion.  Anyone who knows him realizes he is as opinionated as he is passionate.  So get ready to duck if he doesn’t take kindly to a beer – any beer.
    “Brew in the New” was one of his workshops at the Salone del Gusto in Turin at Slow Food’s international event this past week.   Of the hundreds of small microbrewers here in Italy, “Kuaska” as he is commonly known, chose 4 Italian craft beers and 4 American craft beers to represent the new age of brewing.
    This was not an emphasis on poetry as discussed in a prior post, but rather about new directions and refreshing themes in brewing.  The Italian beers:

• La Mummia by the Montigioco Brewery  – a 1 ½ year old wood aged tart beer at 4.6%
• Quarta Runa also by Montigioco – 7% brewed with the freshest of peaches, champagne yeast, a touch of wild brettanomyces yeast, dry yet boldly fruity
• Zagara by the  Barley Brewery  on the Island of Sardinia – fresh yeasty brewed with orange blossom honey with the subtle aroma of dry orange peel.
• BB10 also brewed by Barley Brewery, Sardinia – brewed with indigenous cannonau grapes of Sardinia in an Imperial stout base. 10% abv with licorice, toffee, chocolate, grape juice complexity

    From the USA:

• Temptation by Russian River Brewing Co, Santa Rosa, Calif.   A robust sour, wood aged beer reminiscent and inspired by Belgian lambic tradition.
• Pliny the Elder also by Russian River – A dynamic example of American India Pale Ale
• 3 year old 120 Minute IPA by Dogfish Head Brewery, Milton, Delaware –l.  The original 120 bitterness units has eroded and been replaces with a mildly sherrified character and an overlay of caramel.  At 18% it’s a humdinger.
•  Immortale also by Dogfish Head – Peat smoked malt, maple syrup, juniper berries and vanilla beans.  An exotic and heady blend.

Sam Calagione, Dogfish Head owner and original brewer described his beers and reasons for being.  What impressed me most was Immortale.  It was the first time I had spent any time with this beer.   To me the complexity and underlying smooth malty texture, the notes of juniper, maple syrup, smoke and vanilla were an expression of the immortal connection food and beverage has with our past.  The aroma and flavors brought forth  emotions, comfort, passions and memories of my past.  Walking a forest and enjoying the scent of juniper.  Contemplating the smoky warmth of a burning fire.  Vanilla and maple syrup coupled with the memories of original and youthful joy.  
    Immortale seemed to me to be what Slow Food is all about.  Connecting our past with the present and bringing full circle the appreciation of food and beverage – if we take the time to learn, appreciate and respect the origins of our food and beverage. 

 Photo left:  Lorenzo Dabove, otherwise known as Kuaska, cheers creative beers