Chocolate and beer is a taste match from heaven - No tricks, just treats

October 19, 12:11 PMBeer ExaminerCharlie Papazian

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Varieties of cacao pods displayed at Steve DeVries
Chocolate micro production facility in Denver, Colorado

I love exceptionally good chocolate.  I’m not a snob about it – it’s just that I like the taste of the complex and intricate flavors that comes from artisanal chocolate makers.  There are but about 6 or 7 small “micro” chocolate makers in the United States.   
    I like beer too.  Guess, what?  I like beer and chocolate combinations too. 
    Steve DeVries attended and presented at this year’s Great American Beer Festival’s Beer & Food Pavilion.  His micro chocolate making operation is called DeVries Chocolate , located in Denver, Colorado.  He's very quick to point out that he is a chocolate maker and not a chocolatier.  Each year, he visits Latin American cacao farmers in countries such as Dominican Republic, Costa Rica and Venezuela and oversees small batch harvests that meet his standards.  Standards that are not homogenized into large containers of cacao beans, but individual in their uniqueness.  
   

Photo above : A bag of select unroasted cacao beans.  

     The story of chocolate making   is as complex as beer making.  Chocolate is an agricultural product.  Origin, climate, soil, harvest, fermentation of cacao beans (yes fermentation !), handling, transportation, cleanliness, roasting, processing into chocolate mass, temperature of process and other variable tremendously effect the quality of chocolate.
    When I first suggested that Steve consider pairing up with a craft brewer and make a chocolate and beer presentation he was skeptical.  He's a perfectionist, traditionalist and purist in many ways.  He gave it a shot and guess what?  His reaction after investigating the beer and chocolate match, “This is an unbelievable combination.  I’m amazed at how well it works.”   So it was that he and the Shmaltz Brewing Company   (makers of Hebrew branded beers) delighted the attendees with some real fine tasting.   “Jewbelation with chocolate nib clusters   is the best pairing I’ve ever had with beer,” commented Steve.  Jewbelation   is a 12% abv beer made with 12 malts and 12 hops  commemorating their 12th anniversary. 
    Steve’s second pick was the combination of carmelized nibs    with Bittersweet Lenny’s R.I.P.A. 
    Generally, I find beers with alcohol levels between 7% and 12% a good starting point.   I seek chocolate matches with beer portraying a degree of caramel, toffee, roast, coffee, cocoa malt character.   Fruity and floral hop aromatics and flavors are chocolate friendly.  Moderated hop bitterness shouldn’t interfere with depth of chocolate character.    My choice of chocolate is dark and in the range of 75% to 88% cacao.  Not bitter, but certainly not crippled with what I consider an overdose of sugar common in most chocolate bars.   If you've never experienced artisanal chocolate before treat yourself.

   Other artisanal chocolates made in the United States:  Theo Chocolate (Seattle), Mast Brothers Chocolate (New York City), Taza Chocolate (Somerville, Mass.),  and Askinosie Chocolate (Springfield, Missouri).   Consult your local brewery's beer list, match, experiment and become an expert yourself.   Then share like it was Halloween year around.

     What does this all have to do with Halloween?   “Boo.”   Take a pass on the kisses and tricks.   This Halloween treat yourself to some chocolate finery.  It will change your world.  The kind of change you can believe in, giving you another occasion to enjoy, savor and share your beer discoveries.
     Tricks, treats, boo, Halloween, chocolate.