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Off the beaten track in Stockholm, Part II
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The author, Capt. Andy, at the helm. Ryan Briggs.
If you missed yesterday's post about Part I of the 'Real' Stockholm, click here.
I titled this two-part post 'The Real Stockholm,' because to me, these places represent the truest, most authentic experience one can have while visiting there. However, what I failed to touch on was the inherent impossibility of accurately describing the 'real' anywhere.
As in life, each traveler exists in his or her own personal reality, experiencing each situation different than another. In travel, the 'real' Stockholm (or Nadi, Fiji, Auckland, New Zealand, Brisbane Australia, or Anytown, USA) only truly exists in the perspective of the locals, people that call those places home. As travelers, no matter how 'authentic' we expect our experiences to be, they are merely our interpretation of what's 'real.'
That said, here is the continued list of what I deem the best of the Real ('Real?') Stockholm....
Stoockholm's Skärgård - The World's Biggest Archipelago
The only true way to experience the 30,000 islands (or 100,000, depending on who you ask) of Stockholm's Skärgård is under sail. Sweden (and the rest of Baltic Scandinavia) have a reputation for building some of the toughest sailboats in the world, and those coming from the Swedish boatyards of Najad, Malö, Halberg-Rassey, Germany's Bavaria and Finland's Nautor's Swan are quite capable of crossing any ocean in the world. The archipelago is where many of them are born and tested.
In September, my college roommate Ryan visited Mia (my beautiful Swedish girlfriend) and I in Stockholm for ten days, and wanted to go sailing. Nevermind that the temps were in the 40s and the days were growing awfully short. I rung a friend of mine who happens to own a sailboat charter company (Sailmarine, in Saltsjöbaden, a quick train ride from downtown), and he set us up with a Bavaria 30 and we set out. Ghosting along at 3 knots in a light breeze under a leaden sky, we were treated to the real archipelago, out of the way of the ferries that ply these waters and the tourists that descend upon the holiday islands. We chose our own cove, anchored in peace and enjoyed a fantastic dinner aboard, cooked by Ryan who may be an armchair sailor, but is a fantastic cook. Under sail, you have complete control of your destiny. Head ashore for a hike on a deserted island, or hit the historic streets of Gamla Stan, the Old City, which is accessible from your own boat. Pär at Sailmarine can set up experienced skippers with one of his Bavaria's, from 30-50 ft., or he'll provide you with a licensed captain - like me;) - who can take the helm.
Fitness Fix
The first thing I do when I arrive in a new city is go for a run. I'm marginally obsessed with fitness, and have a bit of a running addiction. But even to the uninitiated, exploring a new place on foot - by running, or walking for that matter - is in my opinion, the best way to get to know a place.
And the best place to run (or walk, or bike) in Stockholm is on a series of trails that follow a narrow sliver of the aforementioned archipelago. In September, while spending a month with Mia, I'd run this 10k loop almost everyday - yes, I was addicted, but moreso to the scenery than the running. The loop takes you past several small sailing clubs, showcasing the old-fashioned Swedish yachts that still race in the harbor in the summertime. You'll pass tiny gardens with tinier huts, an escape from the urban bustle for many locals. In the summer, they tend their gardens and even sleep in the huts. They are curious and beautiful - and excitingly different. And it's pedestrian friendly, with no cars and only few cyclists, and meanders through forest and over bridges. Only a mile or two from Gamla Stan, this loop makes you feel like you're in the countryside.
To get there, get off the Green Line of the 'tunnelbana' (metro) at Gullmarsplan. Once in the center of the market, don your running shoes and head for the windmill restaurant that you'll see. The trail starts here, following the water for about 4k or so. You'll pass an industrial complex, and eventually find some wooden steps that lead up to a bridge which crosses the waterway. Take these steps and cross the bridge. Now you're on Södermalm, another of Stockholm's islands that make up the city. Turn right onto the trail after the bridge and follow it, again along the water, until you reach the enormous pool complex. Here it heads up towards Södermalms business district. Follow the big bridge back over the water and find yourself back where you started at Gullmarsplan. When you're done, head for the cafe on the corner opposite the outdoor market at Gullmarsplan - a true locals hangout, the cafe serves up the best lattes in town, plus an extraordinary selection of mainstream and off-the-wall DVD's.
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