Off the beaten track in Stockholm, Part I

I recently read an article in Outside magazine, supposedly divulging the secrets of freelance travel writers. The author went on to mention an assignment that saw him in Stockholm, Sweden, seeking sultry blondes looking for a sleepover, inspired by the reputation of those Nordic beauties. His experience lasted a week or so, and I'm sure he enjoyed and embarrassed himself. He may have spoken the truth, but it was hardly the Truth.

My experience is real. I found one of those legendary six-foot Swedish blondes while backpacking in New Zealand, and two years later she's still hanging around. I spent last winter living on the other side of the Atlantic, experiencing life there as a resident, not a tourist. Most people won't ever get to 60 degrees North, the latitude of Stockholm. If you do, I offer a can't-miss list of what you must experience. This is the real Stockholm.

'The Local Cafe'

Nothing irritates me more than a Starbucks on every corner. Starbucks has completely destroyed any notion of a 'local' cafe, and whether in New York, Auckland, Sydney or Stockholm, Starbucks is still Starbucks. Sweden's incarnation of Starbucks is called Wayne's Coffee, and at first I thought this was an actual Starbucks entity disguised in a different ensemble. Avoid Wayne's like the plague, and head local.

In Stockholm, my favorite place to sit and think, read a book, or write down my thoughts is Cafe Kaffekoppen, literally 'coffee shop.' Get off the metro at 'Gamla Stan', Stockholm's 'Old City' and head towards Stortorget to find a local treasure.

'The Irish Pub'

Every city in every country has an Irish Pub, and no matter where I go, they always seem to be fun, and they always serve Guinness, my favorite winter beer. So if you make it to Stockholm, you cannot miss Wirströms Pub‎, located in Gamla Stan. Don't let the cramped feeling of the main entrance and bar scare you out - the 19th century basement contains endless corridors, and each ancient-brick archway leads into yet another alcove oozing with ambience. The live music is fantastic, and the bartender speaks English - with an Irish accent, of course.

Check out Part II of The Real Stockholm.