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Beach time (Part I): Isla Iguana, Los Santos, Panama
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You hardly can visit Panama without stopping by the beach! The options are endless and diverse (and I will provide future articles on your choices). For Part I, how about some details for a quiet day trip with amazing snorkeling and wildlife viewing?
Isla Iguana Wildlife Refuge (Iguana Island) is located 320 kilometers (200 miles) southeast of Panama City and 7 kilometers (5 miles) from the closest mainland town, Pedasi (Los Santos Province). Isla Iguana, located in the Pacific Ocean, was declared a wildlife refuge in 1981. The island is 58 hectares (over 140 acres) in size. A small visitor center provides information about the island and well-maintained trails travel between Cirial Beach, where you will be dropped off, and El Faro Beach.
Views of the crystal clear waters off from Isla Iguana. Right pictures includes a view of Cirial Beach.
The History
Isla Iguana was a target for bombing practice during World War II (in fact 2 bombs were detonated for safety purposes in the 1990’s and other ammunition may still be hidden in the surrounding waters). In the 1960’s one person moved onto the island, building a cabin and planting mangos, guava, beans, and sugar cane. Some of the non-native plants continue to grow and the foundation of the cabin can be seen when strolling around the trails. The island was vacated prior to becoming a wildlife refuge.
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Trail passing near old cabin on Isla Iguana.
Water Activities
Snorkeling and SCUBA diving may only be allowed on Cirial Beach because of potentially rough waters on the other side of the island (ask the ranger for information when you arrive on the island). However, this area provides an amazing opportunity to see about 11 species of coral over 16 hectares (40 acres) of ocean. Over 540 species of fishes swim near the island and include yellowfin tuna, red snapper, parrotfish and a variety of small, colorful reef fishes. Some visitors enjoying the island during my visit commented that Isla Iguana was some of the best snorkeling they had experienced in the Pacific Ocean along Latin America.
View of the water from Isla Iguana
Beach Dwellers
If you would prefer to hang-out on the beautiful white sand beach or stroll around the island, you too will enjoy much wildlife, including the green iguanas for which the island is named. El Faro Beach is home to a breeding colony of about 5000 frigate birds (breeding in December and January). Hermit crabs (which exchange shells for abandoned ones as they grow) roam anywhere there is sand. Other crabs, sea slugs, and small fishes can be found in the pools of water among the rocks. Seabirds will fly over or land on the beach, often coming within clear view of where you are relaxing. Whales and sea turtles also visit the waters near the island.
Left: Palms growing on the island. Right: crabs coming out of the water near Cirial Beach.
To Get There
Arrive in Pedasi via car (about 5 hours from Panama City) or via regional plane, landing in Chitre (then take a public bus or taxi to Pedasi). Buses leave from other local towns and arrive in Pedasi throughout the day. I recommend arriving in Pedasi the night before and leaving early in the morning for Isla Iguana. Pedasi has several hotels, stores, and restaurants.
Once in Pedasi, visit one of the small stores advertising tours to Isla Iguana. The store clerk will help you to arrange a tour and can rent snorkel equipment to you ($10-$15/day for mask and fins). Each boat, which will take 5-7 people, charges about $45-$60 for a day trip. If you do not have a full party, ask around town, especially at the restaurants the evening before you plan to depart; you likely will bump into another group interested in visiting the island. The boat operator will want to leave as early as possible to avoid rough waters (and to allow you the most time on the island) and appreciates guests to be on time. The ride to the island is about 20 minutes. Upon arriving on Isla Iguana a ranger will meet you and ask you to register. Entrance fees to the refuge are $3-$5/person/day. Guests currently are not allowed to stay overnight on the island.
Other Information
What to bring: water, sunscreen, lunch (there is no store or restaurant on the island), snorkeling equipment, insect repellent, beach towel, windbreaker jacket (for the boat ride to the island)
Note: Tides and waves may impact your scheduled time of departure to or return from the island. Be prepared for a delay by bringing enough food and water. A shelter is available on the island if weather turns poor.
My recommendation: The sun is quite intense, so be sure to remember the sunscreen. Isla Iguana is a great place to snorkel and to spend a relaxing day. If you have the time on your trip, take a day for Isla Iguana!
*Prices are subject to change and may differ between peak and non-peak seasons.
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