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Walking Spain's Camino de Santiago, Part 2
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In the previous article about my 2001 walk on the Camino de Santiago, a 500-mile pilgrimage trail across Spain, I described my introduction to "refugio life" and what it was like to arrive in the town of Roncesvalles jet-lagged, exhausted, with no one speaking English, and wondering if I would find a place to sleep that night. The story continues…
"Even now, years later, I remember the knot in my stomach, the struggle to hold back tears. I grab a mat and try to find a place to put it on the floor — heads shake, 'no room, full'. I can't even find a place to put a mat! Finally, a couple of women realize that we don't have a clue to what's going on, take pity, move things around, and offer me a place. I don't know what is happening with Ralph, if they will make room for him, or what. I sink to the mat, hold back the tears that would be embarrassing to release. Then just as I think I might survive the night, a woman comes to get us and indicates that we are to follow her. Where are we going now? I wonder."
We go up two flights of winding stairs. We end up with two upper bunks — adjoining bunks. The guy in my lower bunk drags a bench over for me so I can get up and down more easily. I climb up. I ponder silently how old I was when I last slept in a bunk bed. I dismiss my initial fear that I'm going to fall out of this skinny bunk during the middle of the night."
With that traumatizing introduction to Spanish communal living, and because the monastery is set in a small valley and by late afternoon was fairly dark and dreary, we were a little apprehensive about how things were going to go. However, we set out to explore the town; besides the refugio, church, the restaurant (which also had rooms for rent), and a shop that sold some nice cheeses, wine, breads, and souvenirs, there was little else. We bought some olive bread for later."
Dinner was very good. It was served at two seatings, with us at the eight-thirty one. For $1000 pesetas (about $6) we had a thick broth with pasta that was warm and filling followed by fresh trout, wine, bread, and ice cream – having a little food and wine helped our spirits. Then to bed. I took a sleeping pill and slept well."
Over the next few days, we learned a lot more about how refugios worked and where we would find food along the way."
©2006 Susan Alcorn. Excerpt from Camino Chronicle: Walking to Santiago.
In upcoming postings, you'll learn about the traditional starting points of the Camino Francés — the best known route of the Camino de Santiago — from Spain and France; about the various kinds of accommodations available; and about the several regions through which pilgrims travel on their way to Santiago de Compostela.
Resources for Camino hikers:
Susan Alcorn's website
Contraternity of St. James
American Pilgrims on the Camino
If you missed part 1 of "Walking Spain's Camino de Santiago", click here.
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