Hiking in Oakland's Montclair District

October 4, 8:12 PMBay Area Hiking ExaminerSusan Alcorn

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A quiet walk along the Shepherd Canyon Trail photo S. Alcorn

Because the Montclair District of Oakland sits in the hills above Hwy 13, it doesn't have many flat places to hike, it does however have one relatively level trail — and that trail, the Shepherd Canyon Pathway, has a fascinating history. Originally the general area was home to the native Huchiun and Jalquin tribes of Ohlone Indians. During the Spanish Mission era it was granted to Luis Maria Peralta, who then gave it to his son Antonio Maria Peralta in 1842.

Then in the early 1900s, "progress" came to Montclair in the form of a railway. Those who nowadays follow the relatively quiet paved trail that starts in Montclair Village, turns to cross Snake Road on a pedestrian bridge, and gently climbs the hills roughly parallel to Shepherd Canyon Road, might be amazed to consider that they are following a route that was once part of the main line of the Sacramento Northern Railroad.

The Sacramento Railroad was a complicated network using differing kinds of power systems, but altogether the railroad serviced the 185 miles between San Francisco and Chico. When in Oakland it was a trolley using overhead wires. Its route through Montclair skimmed Lake Temescal, followed a berm (still visible) behind Montclair Recreation Center and the old fire station (both on Mountain Blvd.), went along Shepherd Canyon, entered a ravine near Saroni Drive, then went through a one-mile tunnel under the Berkeley Hills to exit on the Contra Costa County side near Canyon. Eventually due to the growing popularity of cars, public transit use declined and passenger rail service ended. The freight service from Oakland to Lafayette ceased on March 1, 1957. Overhead wire and tracks were removed and the Shepherd Canyon tunnel sealed.

Then in the 1970s, a threat to the growing district came — in the form of a push to create a route 77, which would have been an additional freeway linking Contra Costa and Oakland by tunneling through the hills and running down through Shepherd Canyon to contact to Park Blvd. Instead local activists and elected officials defeated the plan and the Shepherd Canyon Corridor Plan was created preserving the canyon.

Nowadays part of the railway's route has become a popular path for walkers (with and without dogs) and joggers. You'll also find kids in strollers, on scooters, and learning to ride bicycles. (More serious bicyclists generally follow Shepherd Canyon Road up to Skyline Blvd.) Though the trail is paved, it does get muddy during rainy spells (other times of year most of the trail is suitable for wheelchairs).

Because this is an out-and-back hike, you can park at either end of the trail — or even partway along and do a figure eight. I suggest you park in the garage at the top of La Salle, turn to your left as you exit the garage on La Salle, climb the short, steep access path to the main trail, and then turn right to start the walk. Initially you'll pass Redwood trees — a fraction of the number of trees that once covered the Oakland hills and then a stand of Eucalyptus. After crossing the bridge — which crosses where one of the old train trestles used to -- you'll see more Eucalyptus, but soon you'll be walking through a canopy of Oaks. When I walk this upper stretch of the trail during less busy times, I feel transported back to Merry Old England.

At about the one-mile point, you'll pass a cluster of homes on your left along Bishops Court and then reach Paso Robles. Where Paso Robles now starts is where the railway's Havens Station once stood.  In another four-tenths mile, you'll reach Saroni Drive. Because this is the end of the paved section, it makes a good turn around point.

After retracing your steps downhill to Montclair Village, you might want to treat yourself to a yogurt cone at the Montclair Malt Shop at 2066 Mountain Blvd, coffee and muffins at Nelly's Java at 1952 Mountain Blvd., or Italian fare at Il Porcellino down from the parking garage at 6111 La Salle Ave. Then you can explore some of the shops such as Montclair's Book Tree or A Clean Well Lighted Place, Montclair Toy House, Farmstead Cheeses and Wines (all on La Salle), and Pelago (for gifts and treats) over on 6134 Medau Pl. I guarantee you'll love both the walk and the shopping.

Happy trails,
Susan Alcorn

For Susan's website on backpacking.
For Susan's writing on other topics
For information on Susan Alcorn's Backpacking Tales and Tips Newsletters for 2009.

Nothing like a run in the park to make the day brighter!

photo by Susan Alcorn