Wine of the week: Grazioso Torrontes 2008

November 11, 1:14 AMKansas City Wine ExaminerDennis Schaefer

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Grazioso Torrontes 2008
courtesy photo

Torrontes is not a widely known grape varietal in this country, perhaps because little, if any, is planted here. Torrontes, however, is the signature white wine grape of Argentina, just as Malbec is their corresponding signature red grape varietal. Nearly every winery in Argentina makes a Torrontes, like nearly every winery in California makes a Chardonnay. But that's where the path differs. Torrontes is not even remotely like any Chardonnay, nor Sauvignon Blanc, for that matter. It is certainly one of the more aromatic and perfumed white grape varietals: think along the lines of Viognier, Albarino and Muscat.

It's really not a big deal wine in the sense that it's bludgeoned with oak, like Chardonnay, and therefore more serious. No, this is a wine that's best left to express itself without all the bells and whistles of new French oak and malolactic fermentation. But to say that it's a simple wine is to sell it short. The natural tendency of Torrontes is its toothsome floral elements, expressive minerality and brisk acidity, all the better to pair with a wide variety of food.

This particular Torrontes, Grazioso, made by the Caligiore Winery, draws on grapes that are organically grown in Mendoza region of Argentina. It has that distinct and alluring floral nose with some pink grapefruit zest in the foreground. Fresh and forward, it rolls out flavors of pink and ruby red grapefruit as well as kiwi, lichee nut and passion fruit and that telltale minerality. It's racy and effusive, with plenty of flavor oomph on the back end. It may seem a bit subtle at first but, compared to an over oaked Chardonnay, the resulting flavor effect is cumulative. That is, the more you taste, the better you like.

Grazioso, by the way, is musical term in which the movement is played in a light, flowing and graceful style. And yeah, that's no boast. This Grazioso Torrontes 2008 is like that.

Grazioso Torrontes 2008  ($ 9.99) is available at Berbiglia, Lukas Liquor and Royal Liquor.

Previous wine of the week: Black Swan Shiraz 2008.