Flying Dog Gonzo Imperial Porter: Cousin Anthony’s favorite

September 6, 9:55 PMSuburban Philadelphia Craft Beer ExaminerMichael Hoster

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During the last two years, I have slowly turned my brother-in-law, Joey, into a beer geek. Like most beer geeks, Joey started out simple—Spaten Oktoberfest and Yards Pale Ale. Now, Joey is a huge fan of west coast-style IPAs and imperial stouts.

Recently, Joey has slowly converted his cousin, Anthony, into a beer geek as well. Though Ant is just now getting his feet wet, he has already denoted one particular beer his favorite: Flying Dog Gonzo Imperial Porter. He was so kind as to bring a bottle over to my house the other evening. My verdict: Either Brother Joey is an excellent mentor or Cousin Anthony has great taste, because Flying Dog Gonzo Imperial Porter is pretty darn good.

Gonzo poured midnight black, with a medium tan head. It demonstrated several pronounced notes of chocolate malt, coffee and hazelnut as well as a subtle breeze of vanilla. Upon consumption, Gonzo delivered a rich presentation of coffee beans, chocolate, licorice and spicy hops. The warrior, cascade and northern brewer hops added tremendous balance, curtailing any potential undesired sweetness. The finish was rather viscous, leaving an oily coating of coffee and chocolate. I am fairly certain that Gonzo could easily pass for a coffee-flavored stout.

I highly recommend Flying Dog Gonzo Imperial Porter; it is a very complex, extremely well-balanced brew. The only forthrightly evident drawback, however, is the hefty price tag: $52-$55 per case at Exton Beverage and the Beer Yard. Gonzo is pretty darn good, but for that price, you could buy a case of Victory Storm King or North Coast Old Rasputin and still have some leftover change. Nonetheless, if you can afford to splurge, Gonzo certainly is worth a try.

As for Cousin Anthony, well, I am quite impressed with his judgment. If he keeps this up, I might just have to hand my column over.

For more information on Gonzo Imperial Porter and other Flying Dog products, visit www.flyingdogales.com.