Sometimes life throws unexpected treasures your way. While there are other events in life to get excited about, being pleasantly surprised by a marvelous meal can rank right up there with life’s other little pleasures. This was the case at Zinc restaurant in New Haven.
Zinc doesn’t shout out to you “Come hither and taste,” but if you pass it by, you’ll wish you heeded this unspoken request. The diverse crowd of young and old at Zinc is as welcoming as the atmosphere. Muted music plays in the background as waitstaff with arms full of aromatic plates deftly zigzag across the floor to avoid running into one another.
The complimentary bread on every table isn’t your run-of-the-mill stale pickings. At Zinc, meals begin with homemade corn and fennel bread cut into bite-sized cubes with yellow pepper ginger sambal—for dipping, spreading or just plain devouring—that whets the pre-dinner appetite like no other.
Before I expound on the wonderful flavors of Zinc, I want to shine the light on their level of customer service. A white linen napkin on black slacks is not a good combination. Most restaurants only stock linens in one color—usually white—and Zinc is no exception. However, when I requested a black linen napkin and was told they didn’t have any, the manager offered a brand new black waiter’s apron to drape across my expensive new black pants. In my book, this equates to extra points for Zinc.
At Zinc, head chef and co-owner Denise Appel, along with chef de cuisine Keith Ruttan, have crafted a menu that is an ode to sustainability. Using fresh ingredients, her farm-to-table philosophy doesn’t go unnoticed in the exquisite cuisine that comes out of the kitchen. Flavor is anything but denuded, and runs the gamut from the small plates and mains menu to the scant but appetizing desserts menu to the wine list, which has been awarded the 2011 Wine Spectator Award of Excellence.
There were so many thumbs-up on the dinner menu, it was difficult to make an intelligent decision not borne entirely of food lust. In the time-honored tradition of “don’t stop ‘til you get enough,” the Smoked Duck Nachos drizzled with chipotle aioli and lime crema was enough to make me want to throw up my hands in satiated surrender. Tender duck, diced red onions, crispy fried wonton skins, and topped with a smidgen of organic greens made this my favorite dish of the evening.
This is not to say that the main courses didn’t win favor with me. They did. Especially the Pan Seared Barramundi, a fish native to Australia and parts of Southeast Asia, as well as farmed in the U.S. Not only was this dish aesthetically pleasing with a smattering of bright red sun dried tomato relish atop and toasted orzo with lobster, fennel and hints of saffron, it was a taste sensation for the mouth as well.
While I didn’t sample the Salmon Gravlax, my dinner companion tore into it with gusto and didn’t come up for air until the entire plate was clean. That said more than words could every express.
On the sweeter end of the culinary scale, the Chipotle Rubbed Smoked Pork Ribs offered a finger-lickin’ experience. Steeped in a hoisin and lime glaze and nestled next to a conservative portion of kim chee, the ribs were saucy, tender and enjoyable.
Zinc appears to have mastered the art of presentation, and the Saigon Beef Lettuce Wrap is no exception. But it’s more than just looks. The mélange of crumbled beef, crunchy peanuts and the twang of chili-garlic sauce was served atop a Bibb lettuce cup with carrot shavings. The slightly astringent flavor of the lettuce was the perfect complement to the mild kick of the beef mixture.
On occasion, a fifty minute drive from Stamford to New Haven is not too much to ask to experience food of this caliber. Zinc offers diners splendid service, excellent cuisine and the right atmosphere to enjoy it all. If only it were closer . . .
Zinc, 964 Chapel Street, New Haven, CT 06510 / 203-624-0507
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