I'm letting the cat out of the bag. But I assume that if you are on the prowl for secret mountain towns, you probably deserve to know about Northern California's finest. This is the second installment of my favorite hidden mountain towns. For information about the first, Felton, click here.
When I first heard about Dunsmuir, I sat scratching my head for hours: A decidedly sophisticated mountain town, where you can find art galleries, gourmet (and organic) food and hike to gushing waterfalls--there had to be a catch.
As it turns out, aside from not offering the finest lodging options--unless you aim to camp, then head to Castle Crags State Park--there wasn't a catch.
When you arrive, check into Railroad Park (530-235-4440) 100 Railroad Park Dr, Dunsmuir. In the shadow of Castle Crags peaks, these restored classic train cars offer a unique night of rest. Here you will also find RV hook ups and tent sites, a pool, restaurant and bar, but the draw is the trains. As you might imagine, rooms can be a little tight, but rates are cheap and views are mighty fine.
Start your day with breakfast at Cornerstone Bakery and Cafe (530-235-4677) 5759 Dunsmuir Ave. This wonderful country diner serves some of the best egg dishes (a triple cream brie omelet anyone?), huevos rancheros, smoked salmon bagels, and muffins around.
Then you'll want to head out on a hike to one of the waterfalls. Hedge Creek Falls is off I-5; take the north Dunsmuir exit, and the waterfall is accessible by a five minute hike from the west side of the off-ramp. You can walk behind this waterfall into a natural lava cave. It is an easy hike, one that will be fine for the little kids in the group.
Or venture out to Mossbrae Falls. From Dunsmuir Ave, drive north from town to Scarlett Way (look for the arch that reads Shasta Retreat). Park on the left side of the bridge and follow the train tracks north for a mile (be very careful because trains still use these tracks and often there is nowhere for you to get out of the way). When you get to a bridge, follow the trail to the right through the trees. These dramatic falls are only 50 feet high, but being 150 feet wide and cascading over emerald mossy rock makes them quite the visual feast.
After you soak up the cascades, head to Sengthong Phelps (530-235-4770) 5855 Dunsmuir Ave. Specializing in something you don’t find much of around here, Sengthong Phelps serves Thai, Laotian and Vietnamese food in an almost hip spot. If you are from San Francisco or an Asian country, you might not love the offerings, but it’s a change from the burgers and fries that populate the region.
Along Sacramento Ave in Dunsmuir, there are a number of sweet galleries and shops to explore. Favorites include the Brown Trout Gallery and Café, which also serves a good coffee, Ruddle Cottage and the Window Box Nursery.
A visit here must include one of the famed swimming holes like Cantara Hole and Dog Creek. Cool off in the Sacramento River with the entire family.
Top off your day with a trip to Café Maddalena (530-235-2725) 5801 Sacramento Ave. Open for dinner Mar-Dec on Thu-Sun. The chef from Trinity Café opened his own bistro in the artsy town of Dunsmuir and it quickly became a local favorite. Menu items change with the seasons, but tend to be heavy on French inspired meat and Mediterranean flavored pasta dishes, with a veggie item thrown in for good measure. Reservations recommended.
With Mt Shasta and her surrounding towns, inhabitants and natural abundance so close, Dunsmuir makes the perfect getaway for folks wanting something a little different.