Northern California hot springs

June 10, 11:02 AMNorthern California Getaways ExaminerMichele Bigley

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Imagine dipping your toes in a pool of natural hot springs, while surrounded by whizzing birds and prancing deer. Or maybe you prefer soaking in clawfoot tubs perched on a cliff with the ocean crashing below. Whether you aim for maintained hot springs or wild hike-in ones, Northern California offers a wealth of soaking options.

Quite possibly the most famous of Northern California hot springs is Esalen. The complex is located in Big Sur, and sits precariously atop the waves. Guests of Esalen Institute have access to the pools and private bath tubs all day. Nonguests can visit the hot springs between 1am-3am. My recommendation is to either visit during a full moon or new moon for the most dramatic views. For more on Esalen, click here.

One of the most secret Nor Cal hot springs experiences is the Stinson Beach hot springs. These only occur during the lowest tides of the year (check the tide charts), and you have to dig until you reach hot water, but it is well worth it. To get there from Hwy 1, turn towards the beach on the Steep Ravine Campground road. You'll have to park by the cabins and hike down to the water. And if you really want a treat, make a reservation to stay in one of the very modest cabins atop the sea.

If you have never experience Calistoga's wealth of hot spring pools, you can't say you know Northern California. Though nearly every spa there offers hot springs and mud baths, I have a few favorites. If you can't stay overnight, the Calistoga Spa Hot Springs Resort is the only place where the public can swim without having a spa appointment. Unfortunately, too many people know this and it gets packed (and sold out) on weekends. Go early and you can have a wristband to come and go all day long. Other places to check out (though you need a spa appointment or to stay overnight) are Dr Wilkenson's, Golden Haven (which often have deals), and Indian Springs.

Harbin Hot Springs (707-987-2477 18424 Harbin Springs Rd, Middletown) is where Bay Area folks head to escape city life—and their clothing. This hot springs resort has miles of hiking trails, hot and cold plunge pools, camping facilities and hotel accommodations. You must be a member to enter (a trial membership costs $10). A day pass ranges from $20-$35 (adults) and $15-$30 (kids).

Orr Hot Springs Resort (707-462-6277; 13201 Orr Springs Rd, Ukiah) offers hot springs beneath trees, while hippies prance around naked sharing their kombucha. It is best during the week, since they limit the number of soakers. They also offer massage service, cabins and camping. Reservations required.

A little less rugged is the Vichy Springs Hot Springs Resort (707-462-9515; 2605 Vichy Springs Rd, Ukiah). Open 9am-dusk. This magical hot springs is open for day use. The champagne mineral pools, the 700 acres of hiking trails and the Olympic sized pool will make the day go faster than you want it to. Day use fee: $27 (2 hours) or $45 (all day).

Sierra Hot Springs (530-994-3773; 521 Campbell Hot Springs Rd, Sierraville) allows you to hike to a private pool beneath a canopy of oaks; enter a dome pool, built of wood; or meditate in the private Phoenix pools. 700 acres of hiking and biking trails nestled within the Tahoe National Forest, and accommodations in a lodge or lovely allergen free hotel. To enter, you need to purchase a membership good for a month ($5) and then fork over another $15-$20 to soak.  

Up in the High Sierra, Grover Hot Springs State Park is 4 miles west of Markleeville at the end of Hot Springs Rd. Open year round (except select holidays and 2 weeks in September), whether blizzards or scorching day, these 2 hot spring pools in an alpine meadow and pine forest attracts folks wanting to go on intense hikes 10,000 ft up and then relax the muscles.

A little harder to find, near Mono Lake are the Travertine and Buckeye Hot Springs. For both, you must drive on some pretty rough roads, but the pools are free and stunning! For information, call 760-872-5000.

Located in the coastal range foothills of Colusa County, between Williams and Clearlake, Wilbur Hot Springs Resort (530-473-2306; 3375 Wilbur Springs Rd., Williams) offers rustic relaxation in a peaceful setting. Most people choose to enjoy the hot springs in the buff, then stay overnight in a cabin. Day use: $45 adults; $20 children 4-12.

Stewart Mineral Springs (530-938-2222; Stewart Springs Rd, off I-5, north of Weed) is the ultimate hot springs getaway in the Shasta Cascade. These mineral springs have been healing those in need for centuries. Choose to soak in the bathhouse, get a massage, or just relax on the deck. The views, the ambiance and the quiet will help with whatever ails you. There is also a sweat lodge on the property, which gets cranked up on most Saturday nights. You can camp here or stay in a room or a teepee (see Lodging). $25 mineral baths. $30 for teepees up to $300 for a house.