For a brief period in time, twice a year in Paris, the cognoscenti of fashion convene for the HAUTE COUTURE…the real couture, the made to measure variety that starts in the mid 5 figures and elevates stratospherically from there. Traditionally, this was the inspiration for the ready to wear collections which will follow in its heels in about 2 weeks’ time. Times have changed and the calendars no longer allow for the influence unless a particular house also does ready to wear. Nevertheless, this is the time that these brands show off what they are made of …especially with the ateliers that are available to them.
I was not an original fan of these 2, but I can say that they have won me over; that is not to say that I necessarily love the clothes. I do, however, respect them for sticking to their “design” guns and for breathing new life into the brand. Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri presented a beautifully rendered collection and have shown the entire fashion world what to expect when they now think of Valentino, the brand.
This collection, like their previous outings, has shown a side that one never associated with the brand. It is now younger, sweeter, almost colorless and free of grand gestures, and yet they tread a thin design line that might be associated or construed with the Valentino of yore..matronly! There is an ethereal quality to the clothes and one might even take a giant step and call them virginal. Do not mistake all these descriptives as synonyms for boring as that it not the case. They have transformed a brand that one might have associated with Joan Collins, Jackie Onassis and J Lo and connected it to young women who appear in fairy tales with blond hair and willowy bodies.
All of this said, the one thing I wish they could do less of is to remove that prissy neck ruffle! The simplicity of the design and the lack of accessories drive home the gentle point of view but that ruffle becomes overkill as if they need to further the point.
One can only assume that they have tapped into a market that never existed as the Haute Couture was originally for grande dames, sheiks’ wives and wedding dresses. It would be interesting to know what the under 40 buying population is for the haute couture…. If there is such a thing, then they are shopping here!
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