For a brief period in time, twice a year in Paris, the cognoscenti of fashion convene for the HAUTE COUTURE…the real couture, the made to measure variety that starts in the mid 5 figures and elevates stratospherically from there. Traditionally, this was the inspiration for the ready to wear collections which will follow in its heels in about 2 weeks’ time. Times have changed and the calendars no longer allow for the influence unless a particular house also does ready to wear. Nevertheless, this is the time that these brands show off what they are made of …especially with the ateliers that are available to them.
Christian Dior, the fabled house of past and present, seems to be fairing quite beautifully under its new leader, Bill Gaytten. While Mr. Gaytten does not lean towards the overly dramatic presentations of the past, the clothes take on a much more real life and starring role which of course contrasts to the reality of their price tags. Nonetheless, the collection that was paraded out today was just beautiful and some might even say PURE DIOR!
With more than a passing nod to namesake Christian Dior, the collection takes on a somewhat retro ish feel yet never appears old fashioned. The clothes are almost ethereal which is of course underscored with the use of organza, tulle and chiffon and with traceries of beading rather than heavily embroidered. The delicate and restrained hand is applied to the draping of each garment with attention that can only be attributed to Mr. Dior. Take note of the "mille feuilles skirts", the tick stitching and the exquisite folds of so many garments which all scream Haute Couture. In short, the true DNA is exposed and utilized with great élan and with barely a nod to the previous creative director.
Not only do the clothes reflect back to Mr. Dior but so does the location of the show which happens to be in the house’s flagship on Avenue Montaigne and the collection is clearly defined into day, “cocktail” and evening which is a practice that should make its return to runway presentations of all types …. or at the very least, day and evening segments. Bravo Bill Gaytten!!
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