WASHINGTON (Map, News) - Since it put sushi on the map in Washington 32 years ago, Sushi-Ko has been one of the top temples in the city for innovative raw fish and rice. Yet it had one major problem: It could hardly accommodate the aficionados who flocked to its tiny two-level space in Glover Park.

Problem solved. Not only has the sushi mecca opened a new location, in the tony new high-end retail plaza The Collection at Chevy Chase, but the new sibling dwarfs the original.

» The Scene:

While the original looks like it was designed on a shoestring, the new one demonstrates considerable thought (and expense) in its decor. Across its multiple rooms, designer Tony Velasquez crafted a thoroughly modern space, including a large bar and lounge area, a separate sushi bar, and upscale touches like white leather and wood booths.

» The Pour:

Sushi-Ko’s owners long ago made waves in the wine and culinary worlds alike when they began pairing red Burgundies with sushi. Their theory is that both raw fish and the classic French wine are high in “umami,” the so-called “fifth taste.” Their commitment continues here as Burgundy gets a prominent place on the tightly focused wine list. White lovers will find tasty Rieslings and sauvignon blancs as well.

» The Taste:

Acclaimed chef Koji Terrano has stayed behind at Sushi-Ko’s Wisconsin Avenue location, leaving a team of new chefs to execute many of his creations in Chevy Chase. Think asparagus and lobster soup, beef tenderloin with seven spices and diakon and aged tofu with chilies and ginger. The kitchen isn’t afraid to branch out into other cuisines, either: Grilled baby octopus gets a mango sauce, while a classic crispy fried eel is dressed up with reduced balsamic vinegar. Oh, the fish, you ask? It’s as fresh as anything you’re likely to find around the metro area. Don’t leave without trying a bit of sashimi.

» The Touch:

Servers are polite and helpful, but can sometimes disappear for long stretches, so prepare to settle in for a bit. By contrast, service at the sushi bar is doting. (Maybe it’s the proximity?)

» Don’t Miss:

The flounder carpaccio, a creation of Terrano’s that matches the thin-cut white fish with black truffles, grapeseed oil and crispy fried carrots.

» Why You Won’t Go:

Because you’d rather eat dragon rolls and such: This is Japanese cuisine unfiltered, not watered down for an American palate.

» Why You Will Go:

For the chance to belly up to the bar and order “omakase” — chef’s choice. Your five or six courses may include a couple off-menu items, as well as a coveted cut of fish or two, like fatty toro.

jdufour@dcexaminer.com