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Little Havana delights carnivores, mojito-lovers

May 12, 2008 12:00 AM (153 days ago) by Jessica Novak, The Examiner
This story ranks Not ranked
Related Topics: BALTIMORE
Bartender Sarah Prince puts the finishing touches on Little Havana’s most popular drink, the mojito. – Photos 
by Jon 
Clements/For the Examiner

Bartender Sarah Prince puts the finishing touches on Little Havana’s most popular drink, the mojito. – Photos by Jon Clements/For the Examiner

BALTIMORE (Map, News) - Not every dish is spectacular at Little Havana in South Baltimore.

But once you find its best, you’ll be back.

- Scene: Little Havana’s outdoor patio, packed with wrought iron and painted, wooden picnic tables, overlooks the Inner Harbor. Yet the sights aren’t as delightful as some would like. A chain-link fence constantly reminds you you’re on Key Highway, not in Key West.

Indoors, you have a choice of booths, or stools surrounding the bar in the middle of the restaurant. The scene swings between Caribbean hideaway and frat boy basement on Tiki Hut night.

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- Taste: Masitas de Puerco Fritas should mean carnivore’s delight in English. The hearty mounds of flash-fried pork tenderloins, served with thin strips of sautéed onions, deserve their signature status on Little Havana’s menu. Though a few of the morsels were slightly dry, the texture was not a problem once dipped in the addictive cilantro lime hot sauce that could double as a buffalo wing sauce.

The mouth-watering Cuban sandwich offers a thick slice of baked ham, shredded pork, Swiss cheese, dill pickle and yellow mustard pressed together in perfection. The ingredients blend together nicely but retain their individual taste. While the Cuban didn’t disappoint, the Pollo al Citrico did. Served on a kaiser roll, the grilled chicken breast, topped with pepperjack cheese, lettuce, tomato and onion, lacked taste.

- Pour: You’ll want to try Little Havana’s house drink — a concoction of rum, fresh mint, lime juice, sugar and soda water shaken and served over ice. It’s arguably the best mojito in town. The tangy margarita, however, tastes strikingly similar to mixes you can make at home. On the beer side of the bar, Little Havana has more than a dozen types of bottled, canned and draft beers, including Pacifico, Modelo Especial, Tecate, Dos Equis Amber, Negra Modelo, Red Stripe and local favorite Natty Boh.

- Finishing touch: Going to Little Havana’s just for the sopapillas is worth it. The crisp pillows of fried, sweet dough sprinkled with granulated and powdered sugar, and drizzled with chocolate and berry sauces, are the type of dessert you’ll keep eating even though you’re full. Scoops of creamy vanilla ice cream make the sopapillas one of Baltimore’s best desserts.

- Why you’ll go: Half-price Cuban sandwiches on Monday night.

- Why you won’t: A steady stream of diners on a Tuesday night slowed an overwhelmed wait staff.

jnovak@baltimoreexaminer.com

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