WASHINGTON (Map, News) - The transformation of U Street’s dining scene rolls on. Already blessed with a rich assortment of midpriced, casual options, such as Marvin and Creme, the strip now has another brick-walled eatery that deserves a drop-in.

Ulah is the brainchild of Med Lahlou, who also owns the popular Stoney’s on P Street and Tunnicliff’s on the Hill. So you know that you won’t find a $90 tasting menu, but rather a neighborhood spot that won’t bankrupt you if you hitch your horse up there once a week.

As for the unique name, that’s a marriage of the street and the owner’s last name.

» The Scene: 

I liken the decor to a movie I’ve seen before but don’t mind watching again — exposed brick, bare wood tables, granite bar, artistic-looking pendant lights, you get the idea. The ground floor features an open kitchen, while the more expansive upper level is home to the bar. Ask for one of the tables against the windows on the second floor, which provide a delicious panorama of U Street on busy nights.

» The pour:

Through Ulah’s dozen taps flow a fun selection of microbrews, three Belgian beers and even Bud Light. Specialty mojitos come in six flavors. If wine’s your thing, Ulah offers only a bare minimum — about a dozen whites and reds, most available by the glass.

» The taste:

The centerpiece of Ulah’s menu is a half-dozen takes on pizza — wood-fired pies with slightly smoky, crispy thin crusts. Among the best: a white pizza with chicken and artichokes, and the “carnivale” with mozzarella, parmesan and prosciutto.

Beyond the pies, you’ll find pub fare such as salads, burgers, a New York strip and pasta.

Check out the tuna tartar with wasabi cream (at $10 it’s better than many versions that go for $15 around town). Mini crab cakes, short on filler and broiled golden brown, were a hit, although even some Hellmann’s mayonnaise or Gulden’s mustard would have been an improvement over the cold, red cocktail sauce on the side.

» The touch:

Ulah deserves some credit here for avoiding some of the problems with detached, shoddy service that plague U Street establishments (and, honestly, the rest of the city as well). On every visit, my server has been knowledgeable, friendly and efficient.

» Don’t miss:

The “American Pate” — a homey slab of grilled meat loaf and gravy.

» Why you won’t go:

The noise. The sound waves echo off the brick and wood upstairs, creating quite a cacophony.

» Why you will go:

To chill out in the comfy lounge area — couches and low tables — that Lahlou placed right in the upstairs dining room.

jdufour@dcexaminer.com