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Underwood Bar & Bistro – Graton
9113 Graton Road
707-823-7023
Graton is a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it spot that you might pass through on your way to the western part of Sonoma County (or what we locals call “west county”). Not even a wide spot in the road, it has a couple of stop signs, and what might generously be called a “downtown” with a few buildings facing each other across its main street.
Underwood Bar & Bistro, located in one of those buildings, has become destination restaurant in the last few years. Inside, you may feel as if you’ve stepped back in time. The beautiful, well-stocked bar has a feel of old San Francisco, while the main dining room evokes a Parisian bistro. It all comes together nicely.
At a recent lunch, my husband and I shared white corn chowder as a starter. I had the Niman ranch burger with white cheddar, while he had a Vietnamese pork sandwich. My burger came with to-die-for fries and excellent chipotle ketchup, while the pork sandwich came with a savory slaw-like salad. The food was very good, the service prompt and friendly. We chatted a bit with the general manager, a very likeable character who made us feel like old friends. The beverage list includes a nice assortment of wines, both by the bottle and by the glass, a variety of beers, and specialty non-alcoholic drinks like Henry Weinhard’s root beer and Reed’s original ginger brew. I enjoyed a glass of Ridge Three Valleys zin, a perfect accompaniment to my burger.
Graton isn’t far from Sebastopol, but is also within a reasonable drive from Santa Rosa and Petaluma. I think we’ll go back for dinner sometime soon. Underwood may be our newest favorite restaurant. Patio dining is available. Reservations are available at 707-823-7023.
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