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A toast to the late winemaker Kathryn Kennedy
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Photo taken by son Marty Mathis in 1989
Pioneering winemaker Kathryn Kennedy passed away on August 23, after a long battle with cancer. Kathryn Kennedy wines have had a special place in my heart for some time, and I heard the sad news by chance last week. I thought I'd post some personal remembrances here, but the New York Times obituary discusses her life in more formal detail.
My husband and I lived in Saratoga, California, for a number of years (he grew up there), and one or both of us would pass by the Kathryn Kennedy vineyard on Pierce Road every day for years. The vineyard was not marked - you just knew they were hers. Her highly-regarded Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (100%) came from this tiny place in the foothills of the Santa Cruz Mountains, where we lived about a mile away. But even before that, when I was first starting to learn about and appreciate wine, at the age of 24, my friend Dave introduced me to the Kathryn Kennedy "Lateral" red blend, which, although it did not carry the prestige of the Estate Cabernet, it was certainly well-respected and more importantly for me, it was the first substantive wine that I actually still remember tasting. This wine was one of Dave's local favorites: a vintage 1992, it was dark and smooth, with a subtle hint of structure that lets you know it had years left. I don't remember the exact flavors, but it made an impression on me then, and still does, in those rare moments when I come across one.
Several years ago I was in San Jose for a few days, and the timing of the trip coincided with a Kathryn Kennedy wine dinner at a Saratoga restaurant called Sent Sovi (since the winery has never had a tasting room, it was a unique opportunity to sample their different selections). Although Kathryn herself was not present, I met Sales Director Eric Fountain, who recounted stories about the early history of the winery, including the fact that early on she tried to make a go of the property as a Christmas tree farm, but it didn't pan out. It was her discovery and passion for the vine that eventually won out, but most importantly to her, it was giving the children a tangible connection to the land. Her son Marty Mathis has been the winemaker since 1981, and his influence has led to, among other things, a delicately crisp and lovely Kathryn Kennedy Sauvignon Blanc from Mendocino and Sonoma grapes. At this dinner we were treated to both the 1998 and 1989 Estate Cabernets, and although to me, the '89 was just starting past its peak, the 1998 was regal glory: full fruit, soft on the palate, with complex flavors of cinnamon, blackberry, tobacco, dusty cocoa, white pepper, and notes of cardamom.
It's not clear whether Marty and the rest of the children are going to continue the winery. If memory serves, Marty is the only one heavily involved in winery operations, and it is likely not feasible for him to buy out his three siblings, considering that the vineyard is surrounded by very expensive real estate, and it wouldn't surprise me if it were worth at least $1M per acre. He's definitely a very talented winemaker, though, and I truly hope that he will continue to keep his mother's name and label alive. Fingers crossed. I hope.
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