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How old are "old vines"?
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Sometimes wines are labeled "old vine", but what does that really mean? It turns out that there are no hard and fast rules about how old a grapevine needs to be in order for it to be termed an "old vine". In France, the term is vieilles vignes, but again, there is no agreement on actual vine age for usage of that label. The Bollinger Champagne house originally coined this term long ago to refer to grapevines that had survived the phylloxera devastation of the 19th century.
Generally speaking, as a grapevine ages to about 15-20 years, its vigor diminishes and it begins producing fewer leaves and fruit clusters, which can lead to increased concentration of flavors in the remaining berries. Trunk thickness also increases with age, as is shown in the picture. Because less fruit is produced per vine, and because of the potential for improved flavors and complexity, "old vine" wines may be priced higher than their counterparts. The Cedergreen Cellars Old Vine Chenin Blanc (which is one of my wine picks this month) comes from vines planted in 1968, which, for Washington State, is quite old indeed. Other examples of old vines are the Renwood Grandpere Zinfandel from California, produced from a mere 20 acres of the oldest clone of Zinfandel in America, believed to be about 130 years old. The oldest known producing grapevine is at Hampton Court Palace outside of London. The "Great Vine" was planted about 1768 and occupies a very large greenhouse, where it has been well cared-for and as a result, still produces about 1/4 ton of grapes annually! It is also the largest known grapevine in the world, and its trunk is over 12 feet in circumference, with one of its branches reaching over 120 feet in length.
Unfortunately on wine labels, the age of the "old vines" need not be specified, but as a consumer, you should ask - your retailer should know. In any case, they are usually worth trying, so taste and enjoy!
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