
Monkfish is often called the “poor man’s lobster” because of its similarity in the meat’s texture and subtle sweetness. The tail of the Monkfish and the liver are the best parts for eating. The liver shows up as a Japanese menu delicacy, while the tail can be interpreted in many cuisine languages.
David Moss, the Detroit Restaurant Examiner is known for coaxing recipes out of the top chefs and then whisking them onto his columns. Recently, while checking out the Detroit Fish Market, David spoke with Chef Leonardo Vulagi and now delivers his Pan Roasted Baby Monkfish. The sweetness of the slow-roasted fish is further amped up with tomatoes and artichoke hearts.
This dish leans toward the flavors of coastal Italy. If the preference is for white wine, Antinori produces two to choose from. The first is Antinori Tenuta Guado Al Tasso a citrusy, Vermentino from Bolgheri (about $22.00) and the crisp, Antinori Cervaro della Sala, a Chardonnay/Grechetto blend, also from Tuscany (about $47.00).
Forget the old wives' tale about only white wine with fish. A fruity, Pinot Noir would bring out the sweetness of the fish and the roasted tomato. A well-priced Burgundy, the Valmoisine Verdon (about $14.00) from Louis Latour or the Martin Ray Pinot Noir (about $23.00) from Santa Barbara.
Monkfish, Detroit-style, brings out the versatility of this firm-fleshed fish.
For more info: Find all of the wines mentioned in this article at Italian Wine Merchant, New York; in the Los Angeles area, Du Vin Wine & Spirits and Silverlake Wines.
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