100 wines tasted, the best 8 listed here

June 30, 9:41 AMPortland Wine ExaminerDavid Gray

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Each week brings a new set of wines to sample from area wine distributors.  The representatives tour the area to allow retailers and restauranteurs to taste, and this gives me the opportunity to taste through, on average, about 6 wines each day.   While many of the wines are of very decent quality, about 1 in 12 wines surpasses the "good enough" mark to become an exceptional wine and value.  Keep in mind that these are the wines representatives have chosen to sample for the public, which means most of the true dreck never escapes the warehouse until it is bound for a grocery store stackout.  If we were to take a random sampling of ALL wines, perhaps 1 in 40 or 50 could be considered exceptional. 

Here are the few standout phenoms from the past few weeks:

• J Winery 2006 Chardonnay ($30) has aromas of abundant apple and mild cedar, with fullness and a creamy midsection.  If you buck the current fashion trend for unoaked chardonnay and still prefer your Chard to be oaky and big, this is a great choice for you.
• Charles Smith 2007 The Velvet Diva ($14) is a value release from the eclectic winery owner and winemaker of Walla Walla's K VIntners.  He doesn't shy away from producing this Merlot the way it should be...a reflection of the terroir with cherry and red berry plus hints of earth and a vein of chocolate running through the midsection.  It's a great value and expression in Northwest Merlot.
• Pascual Toso 2008 Malbec ($11) is a consistent value year after year.  The Argentine wine reputation has been built on value malbec, and this ratings winner shows why.  Approachable and fruity, it has just a tinge of spice and dark berry fruits to provide a perfect match to white meat BBQ, pizza and burgers.
• Bogle 2007 Sauvignon Blanc ($10) provides surprisingly good varietal characters, with grassy notes and citrusy acidity for serving alongside salads, seafoods and summertime.  Melon and grapefruit flavors abound.  This is a surprising pick -- in this price range there are few Sauv Blancs outside of New Zealand (and certainly fewer selling for $10) that give the ample fruit Americans enjoy without overdoing the "Americanized" softer acids and elimination of minerality.  This one hits the right balance.
• Paul Ginglinger 2005 Riesling Grand Cru Pfersigberg ($28) is another of the "Americanized" versions of great wine.  While most better German rieslings will have strong hints of petrol and minerality, this example blasts forward with a brash personality filled with honey and pear fruits with complex baked nuances.  Long pear-juice length allows just a hint of petrol to peek through.  This one will probably age well for those seeking a cellar candidate to drink in '12, at which point it will deliver its German roots very well.
• Goose Ridge 2006 G3 ($15) is a blend of 49% Syrah, 35% Merlot and 16% Malbec exhibiting a dark nose with black tea, cedar and pepper spice.  Complexity on the mid-palate, with dark fruit dominating the finish makes this a worthy value from the Yakima area.  Summer and Autumn will provide plenty of grilling evenings to provide this wine the stage on which to perform well.
• Owen Roe 2007 "The Keeper" Cabernet Franc (16) is truly a "keeper".  This deliciously large version of Cab Franc is smoother than Cabernet Sauvignon, less earthy than Merlot, approachable like Aussie Syrah and spicy like a smooth Zinfandel.  There's few options to pair this wine incorrectly...you'll love it alone or with any meaty meal.  There's not much of it out there, however.  You may have to visit the winery's tasting room to find it!
• Dominio IV 2005 Tempranillo ($27) provides a great chance to taste what this Spanish grape can do when grown in the Northwest.  This may be the best Tempranillo I have tasted from Oregon.  Aggressive dark fruit at the front drags you into a full-bodied, spicy and high-tannin ball buster.  It's worth the taste, but only next to some high-profile red meat fare.  Try dramatically flavorful grills such as Cajun, Brazilian or Moroccan spices over sausage or rubbed roasts.