Detroit Fish Market fills void in local dining scene

November 9, 9:54 PMDetroit Restaurant ExaminerDavid Moss

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  Crabcakes at Detroit Fish Market

There’s a lot to like about Detroit Fish Market, a fairly new restaurant nicely nestled among the merchants of “Paradise Valley” (formerly Harmonie Park), just south of Comerica Park.

Open since January, Detroit Fish Market is owned by veteran restaurateur Frank Taylor. Under his watchful eye, and that of his chef, Leonardo Vulagi, the restaurant features several tasty and eye appealing creations.

Chef Leo notes that everything is fresh, every day. He buys local produce whenever possible, and all fish and seafood are flown in daily. Chef Leo, who also opened Andiamo’s, Larco’s and Sangria, is a hands-on chef who likes to take an active role in the kitchen, even working the line on some nights.

At lunchtime, we were treated to some Detroit sunshine flowing through floor to ceiling windows. There are wood floors, exposed brick, 15 ft ceilings and private booths in an expansive dining room. Waitstaff in white coats and aprons serve food and chat with guests.

Start with the lobster mac & cheese. You’ll want to thank me. This decadent creation of lobster meat and pasta with heavy cream, fontina, white & yellow cheddar, Boursin and parmesan cheeses, is topped by a sprinkle of panko breadcrumbs seasoned with smoked paprika. While several places serve high-end mac these days, this one stands out for its layers of flavors and creaminess, thanks in part to the Boursin cheese, which really sets this dish apart from the rest.

Another sure bet starter is the fried oysters, delicately coated in cornmeal and quickly fried to a golden brown. Add a little lemon juice and dip in the peppery red sauce, and you’ll be glad you shared that mac & cheese, rather than eating it all by yourself.

There’s also a tasty spinach-artichoke dip with crabmeat, served in a crock alongside homemade tortilla chips. This is another winner.

Detroit Fish Market offers a diverse menu, calling on traditional fish and seafood favorites, as well as a Frank Taylor classic, the fried lobster. The daily Fresh Catch includes Chilean Sea Bass, Maine Sea Scallops, Alaskan Halibut and more, available chargrilled, broiled, blackened or sautéed. There’s also a sandwich menu featuring New Orleans Po’ Boys with catfish, shrimp or oysters.

Our table enjoyed three selections, starting with the Walleyed Pickerel, which was grilled and served with fresh veggies. The light flaky fish was tender and moist. One diner thought it was under-seasoned. Crabcakes were another good choice. While not the best I’ve ever experienced, they were quite good, dusted with panko breadcrumbs and seasoned with some ginger, lemon and lime zest.

Our table’s third entrée was a clear favorite. The Pan Roasted Baby Monkfish has made me re-think this odd-looking fish. Ours was seared, roasted until tender and served with a sauce of tomatoes, artichokes, mushrooms and capers. The sweet meatiness of the fish was reminiscent of lobster. See the recipe here. See a wine pairing here.

If you go to Detroit Fish Market and try everything I’ve mentioned, you will not really have room for dessert. So eat sensibly, and save some room for a happy ending.

We tried three different desserts, all delicious. The ubiquitous chocolate lava cake was a no brainer for me. Warm moist chocolate cake with a molten middle that resembles warm pudding—an offer I couldn’t refuse. You can find this dessert at several venues but this one rises above the rest for its intense flavor and light texture. The apple strudel was divine. Cinnamon-spiced apples in a warm and flaky crust with a tasty caramel sauce—total comfort food. For any high end seafood restaurant, Key Lime pie is a must--and it better be good. This pie was firm, rich, and creamy, slightly tart and slightly sweet. My overall favorite—which is quite an accomplishment for a dessert that doesn’t involve chocolate!

So take a break from the suburbs. Go see a performance at Music Hall, the Detroit Opera House or the Max. Stop in before or after the show, and see what the buzz is about.

On this most recent visit to Detroit Fish Market, we did not pay for our meal, so consider this a disclaimer. Please bear in mind that if I experienced poor service or bad food, I’d honestly say so.

Detroit Fish Market
1435 Randolph Street
Detroit, MI 48226
313-963-3003

See my other reviews of metro area restaurants:

• Iridescence, Motor City Casino, Detroit    
• Slows BBQ, Detroit
• Wasabi Korean & Japanese, Detroit       
• What Crepe?, Royal Oak     
• Inn Season, Royal Oak               
• Café Habana, Royal Oak
• Town Tavern, Royal Oak
• Katana Japanese Steakhouse, Royal Oak
• Angel’s Café, Ferndale    
• Inyo Sushi, Ferndale    
• Cafe Via, Birmingham    
• Ruth’s Chris, Troy            
• Maggiano’s, Troy