
by Crystal A. Johnson
Every once in a while taste buds need to become reacquainted with the origins of its comfort meaning that one can't substitute the real thing or forget your roots. For me, growing up in New York I was exposed to various types of food from around the world at a young age. Having a southern family, seafood, soul food and other southern cuisine are staples of my upbringing. I learned how to crack open and eat my first steamed crabs with Old bay seasoning during summer vacations in Virginia. What I have found over the years is that every culture has its own comfort foods and regions of the United States have signature foods. This week, the Los Angeles Comfort Food & Soul Food Examiner visits Chesapeake, Norfolk and Hampton, Virginia in search of classicly prepared to innovative gourmet comfort food.(Look for full reviews on each)
Sterlings Steaks Seafood- Chesapeake, Virginia
Chesapeake, Virginia is nearby the Norfolk harbor and Virginia Beach. With the Norfolk Naval base so close the Chef of Sterlings Steak & Seafood restaurant admits it is a wonderful opportunity to cook for people who come from all over the country and have traveled the world. Sterlings is nestled on the corner of the Chesapeake Crossing shopping center in the Greenbriar area of Chesapeake. The restaurant is near the Chesapeake Convention Center. It is great for large groups or parties because the glass encased room with large conference dining table and projector available for use in the room. What can you look forward to in the way of Comfort food? For starters, a wonderful lobster bisque full of bits of lobster meat and plenty of flavor. A dish which takes you on the wild side of comfort food is the Philly Cheese steak egg roll. This deserves an "A" for originality. The filling includes NY Strip, red pepper and cheese, this egg roll is a new spin to two fast food comfort faves. Sterlings is impressive when it comes to wine pairings and presentation. Chef Wayne is masterful is blending food combinations.
Freemason Abbey Restaurant and Tavern- Norfolk, Virginia
Located in the downtown area of Norfolk, the Freemason Abbey was built and dedicated as a church in 1873. Over the years, this location has changed hands of ownership eventually becoming a restaurant in 1988. This a a unique place with the architectural structure of a church and rustic decor. There are quite a few treats on the menu so look for the extended review for more details. She Crab Soup is popular in Virginia;however, Charleston South Carolina has bragging rights for the origin of She Crab Soup. Scottish settlers in the Charleston area brought various types of bisques to the area. She Crab Soup is a creamy crab soup with a spicy yet mild kick. White pepper is often a component of the recipe. It is a winner at the Freemason Abbey restaurant and can be ordered as a cup or in a crock size. Another sensational pre-dinner choice is the artichoke dip as an appetizer. It is a marvelous combination of bacon shallots and artichoke hearts. Moving on to dinner, my dining companions and I order three different dishes. Of the three dishes ordered(Seafood Platter/Chicken Picatta) for the main course, the roast prime rib Aus Jus hands down was deemed the best of the dishes. The Midwestern beef is slowly roasted and served with hearty mashed potatoes and string beans with almond shavings. I ordered the seafood platter but I was not terribly impressed. The crab-cake was very good and fresh tasting. The scallops and shrimp were over cooked. The good news about the fish was that is was tender:however, the flavor was bland. On Friday's different wild game such ostrich, bear or deer on the menu. As for dessert, there is in an outstanding apricot bread pudding drunk with brandy sauce and smatterings of raisin. The deep dark chocolate Black Velvet cake with cream cheese frosting is quite a impressive cake. It is moist and rich with flavor. www.freemasonabbey.com
Mary Helen's Southern Cuisine & Creole- Hampton, Virginia
Located near downtown Hampton and around the corner from the historic Hampton University is Mary Helen's, a restaurant serving unmistakable Southern Cuisine including Pig's feet and Chittlin's (Chitterlings) to an extensive Creole menu. Admittedly, I have not eaten Pig's feet or Chitterlings in 20 years but the flavors in my mouth were like the memory of an old tune's chorus, "Reunited and it feels so good." For this review, my dining companions included my mother and sister. We arrive at lunch time on a Wednesday when the lunch buffet traditionally happens. Tuesday through Friday a buffet is set up but the menu changes daily. On Sunday a lunch buffet also occurs. Among the better items on the menu are the fried chicken, mac & cheese, red beans, pig feet and fresh marinated veggies. My sister liked that the fried whiting was not predictable in the flavor department and lightly battered. My mother, a southern pro at cooking appreciated the pig feet were not sticky and found the zucchini struck a balance of not being overcooked. However, I found the zucchini a bit soft but not mushy. For dessert, we have a classic bread pudding served with a delicious lemon sauce. Mary Helen's also has an entertaining slate of activities including Jazz on Thursday nights and Karoake on Friday nights. http://maryhelens.com/
Magnolia Steak & Seafood Co.- Norfolk, Virginia
Located in the trendy upscale neighborhood of Ghent is Magnolia's. Seafood is a staple of the area. Tracey Holmes, the owner and manager of Magnolias treats us to a tasting menu. Up first is the Oysters Magnolia which is filled with backfin crab meat and topped with Parmesan. It is absolutely divine. Miniature sweet jalapeno corn muffins are brought out. There is a nice balance of sweet bread with a slight kick. Next up is Shrimp and Grits with a side of baby back ribs. The shrimp and grits is a bowl full of a gourmet explosion with loaded red peppers,tomatoes, bacon, scallions, and green peppers. It brims with flavor. The ribs are so smoked and so tender that the meat falls off the bone. This is paired with the Estancia Pinot Grigio which is lovely and smooth. We also share a delicious 18 ounce steak but that will be covered in the full length review. The evening is finished with Chocolate Mouse pie and the scene stealing Key Lime pie which my mother and I found ourselves vying for homemade dessert baked by the restaurant owner. Holmes knows how to strike a balance in baking. Key Lime can go wrong but the bitter and sweet is balanced in her pie. The graham cracker crust has the baked hardness authentic of homemade crust in its composition. The Key Lime pie is on the summer menu. Collard greens and Mac & Cheese join the menu by winter. This is a a great place for tourist and locals. It is a great place for a nice romantic dinner and another side the establishment there is an oyster bar area where the after 11 PM crowd comes to play pool. www.magnolia-restaurant.com/