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Beach on the cheap: Koh Samui, Thailand
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Koh Samui, Thailand
Looking for a holiday that won’t break the bank? Dreaming of an island paradise with beautiful white powdery sand, warm calm waters and palms swaying in the tropical breeze? I would encourage those of you looking for budget travel options or just ways to stretch your Euros and dollars into a longer vacation to take a closer look at one of my favorite islands in South-East Asia; Koh Samui, in the Kingdom of Thailand.
There are several things that I love about Koh Samui, but one of my favorites is the beach at night, particularly if I am staying on Chaweng Beach. The main road through Chaweng has many restaurants and places to stay on both sides of the road with the beach side establishments being right on the water. Yes, there is outrageous nightlife to be had; but what I love is walking down the beach, hearing the music and watching the last rays of the sun create a beautiful display of color against the darkening sky as I look for some place to kick back and have a drink or a bite to eat. I usually stay on the north end of Chaweng which is a bit quieter but within walking distance of any sort of carnal pleasures that you feel inclined to partake in. Of course if you can’t or don’t choose to walk at the end of the evening, there are plenty of taxis.
Once the sun sets, all the restaurants and bars move lounge chairs out to the beach and circle them around low tables. You can simply walk along until you hear some music you like, find somewhere to lounge and a frosty beverage will magically appear. All the restaurants have posted menus on the beach side (which I love) and most have charming sand volcanoes holding flames that illuminate the beach so you can walk along, read menus and decide what you want to eat. I love nothing better than having dinner on the beach with my toes in the sand and even more so when there is spicy Thai food on the table and I have a nice cold Singha in my hand.
I realize I am effusive with my superlatives, but one of the most magical sights I have ever seen is watching wishing lanterns be lit. Wishing lanterns are hot air balloons (about 2 feet in diameter and 4 feet high) made of tissue paper with a candle holder on the bottom. You light the candle and hold the lantern until they fill and levitate, and then release it with your wish. They rise, lighting the beach and eventually becoming one in a line of tiny orange stars floating on the breeze down the beach along the contours of the hills and into the night sky, eventually disappearing from view. Of course early morning smoke in the hills made us think that there is probably a family up there bearing the brunt of all the wishes… but that night, I didn’t think I had ever seen anything more beautiful in all my life. Beach vendors sell the wishing lanterns either in town or along the beach for about 400 Baht. Watch this YouTube video of someone making a wish.
Where to stay
Koh Samui is the largest island off the east coast, and the third largest in Thailand. If you are looking for an “untouched, Robinson Crusoe, only person in sight on the beach experience”, this probably isn’t it. However, there are a plethora of beaches on the island to choose from, each with its own special feel and options for entertainment. There are also plenty of accommodation options to choose from, with literally hundreds of hotels ranging from 350 Baht per night sand floor cabanas with no air-conditioning to world class five–star resorts with every conceivable amenity. You are sure to find something that fits both your tastes and your budget. Here are some of my favorite beach picks that have lodgings available on the low end of the scale.
Chaweng, east side: Great swimming and wide beach on one side, party scene and hotels on the other. My favorite is North Chaweng (Try Buri Rasa)– quiet but still walking distance from all the nightlife.
Lamai, south of Chaweng: Quieter than Chaweng but still some great night life, spa resorts and deep water swimming.
Bo Phut, northern coast: Quiet typical fisherman’s village, beautiful white sand beach dotted with coconut palms. View of Koh Phangan, home of the Full Moon Party.
MaeNam, northern coast: The most remote and quiet of all the beaches. Cheap accommodations, (got a quote today of 400 Baht for 2 people at the New Star Bungalows) in a pristine and beautiful setting. Yellow sand, views of Koh Tao and the closest beach to the ferries.
Getting there: There are direct flights from Bangkok, KL, Singapore and Hong Kong, making a trip to Koh Samui very easy as a stopover, getaway weekend or a destination. It is also a great option for an extension to an existing business trip. All work and no play… well you get the point. From Bangkok flights will run you about $90 on Thai Airways, and for a cheaper alternative, try a train + ferry combo that will set you back as little as $12.
Look back here for "Off the beach" activities in Koh Samui, as well as a Full Moon Party tutorial.
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