The Bleeding Deacon and the joys of the unexpected

November 7, 9:46 AMSt. Louis Healthy Dining ExaminerDebbie Deming

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Photo/thebleedingdeaconpublichouse.com

Of my own accord, I may never have stepped foot into The Bleeding Deacon.  But tempted by a deal, a friend and I decided to give it a try.  Within 15 minutes, the atmosphere made this among my top 10 watering holes.  After dinner, we left happy, surprised, and with definite plans to return.

From the exterior, it looks like one of those bars my dear old Dad would adore (my dear old Dad is a retired union construction worker - just for frame of reference).  Amused by the proximity to an Adult Novelty shop (next door), the "Now Serving Lunch and Diner" sign out front scared me a little - yes, St. Louis Restaurants, I take off for spelling.  When I walked in, I expected dark and kitschy, with Dad types hunkered over a lukewarm mug of keg-drawn beer, only acknowledging my presence with a combination of grunt, glare, and "who let a chick in here".  I got dark and kitschy, but once my eyes adjusted, the rest was a collection of quirks and head-tilting moments I found sincere and playful and just plain neat.  At the bar were a handful of patrons, and each one looked up from their beer, or their cocktail, or their laptop, with a welcoming glance.  A bar.  With WiFi.  And even more curious, it's clean in here.  Not bar clean.  Clean clean.  The mirror behind the bar, the concrete floor, the cheesy laminate pub tables, the cornball 70's style diner booth, the glass I received with my can of Strongbow.  Granted, on a Tuesday evening, you might not be expecting a "messy" crowd, but after surviving a year in this economy, you expect a little wear and tear.  This place is loved by its creators, and it shows.

When the owner/barkeep brought my first Strongbow and a menu, I was expecting a hodge podge of British pub fare and traditional St. Louis eats.  No toasted ravs.  I see the word "vegan".  Does that say Hummus?  And what in the blue blazes is a Hand Held Victual?  From the completely unexpected to the curious twists on classics, the menu was not dear old Dad's pub food.  My pal and I shared the Sweet Potato Salsa, and while there were a few missteps, the combination of sweet potatoes, corn, black beans, and spices were a smile in your mouth.  Not too spicy hot, think Pico de Gallo in consistency, don't labor too intently on keeping the goods on a chip, let it rest until room temperature (ours came right out of the fridge), and you've got a healthy nosh to accompany your flavorful brew (several Schlafly options were available on tap).  My love of the bacon lettuce tomato sandwich is well documented, so that was my Hand Held Victual of choice, and my pal ordered the meatloaf, paired with fresh green beans (is that bacon in there?) and garlic mashed potatoes.  I rarely say something was overseasoned, but the meatloaf was heavy on the thyme, and while an interesting flavor, did not appeal to my friend's craving for comfort food.  My BBLT was well prepared, served on Companion  5-grain bread, with leafy fresh lettuce.  The bacon, a tad thin, and the tomatoes, a tad cold (I personally find refridgeration sucks the flavor out of tomatoes, but your mileage may vary).  I had more than enough, and took half a sandwich to work the next day - just as satisfying. 

More than reasonably priced (dinner for two with an appetizer plus alcohol came in at $40)  Mike, the aforementioned owner/barkeep treated us to some pie in exchange for my pal's uncomforting meatloaf experience, and it worked.  My friend left more than comforted by tasty al dente apples, a crisp crust, and a combination of caramel and spice holding things together.  Yes, I had a few bites.  So sue me.

I liked The Bleeding Deacon.  The food was unexpected, creative, and good - miles above bar food, only inches to go in competing with many of my favorite restaurants.  I can already hear the Fish and Chips and another can of Strongbow calling me back....

For more info: Located at 4123 Chippewa, next door to Simple Pleasures Adult Novelty, and across from a ginormous QT, just a few yards from Gravois.  Open every day.