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Trip report: Woonasquatucket River, Downtown
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The city of Providence looks completely different from the point of view gained in the water, especially during the first nice summer evening of the year.
We started from the edge of Bold Point Park, reached by following the 'boat ramp' signs off Warren Ave at the east end of the Washington Bridge. There are plenty of spaces for cars and a gently-sloping decline into the water. The rocks are wet and slimy, like walking on greased ball bearings. After putting into the Providence River, a short open-water crossing is required. Passing by a big old wood piling caused quite a ruckus among the resident gulls. We crossed as a large group to be safe from motorized traffic. There was a little bit of wind and waves, enhanced by small wakes from passing boats. We then slid under the hurricane barrier and into the Woonasquatucket River. Our first site was Tent City under one of the bridges parallel to the river. Residents looked up at us without seeming to pay much notice, likewise patrons of the nearby S. Water St bars.
Once past the barrier, all was calm and easy. The mildness of the current and protection from wind meant that we could divert more attention to our surroundings. Wonderful views of the whole skyline can be seen from here. Our paddling time of 6:30 was perfect to catch this view in the beginning of golden evening light. Passing S. Water St, the view is open and only slightly lower than street level, yet it still seems like a totally different perspective. Asking for a table at Water Place restaurant seemed quite reasonable. Many people stopped to watch and wave, but others declined to throw any snacks from their upper-level apartment windows.
There are several stone carvings and views of public sculptures that are only seen from the water. We passed by the styrofoam guy who floats mid-waterfire. A plaque shows the 1938 hurricane water level (well above the sidewalk). Everything is very familiar yet seen in a new way. The water may not be pristine (many city dwellers still need to learn how to Leave No Trace) but the river's beauty can still be appreciated.
We slalomed around the WaterFire fixtures and under the mall. The next section of the river is encased in stone retaining walls and foliage that borders Promenade St. The water is farther from the street here, and the foliage further shielded us from street view. Because our group was large (around 30 paddlers) we turned around near Acorn St and headed back. The river narrows considerably from there. By this point the golden light of pre-sunset was in full force. Every building and bridge seemed to glow with honey-coated goodness. The crowds at Fish Co and Kurrents still paid us little attention as we stopped in front of them to get our whole group together.
The second crossing was much easier than expected. Winds were now in our faces but not hard, and the current was in our favor. Enough daylight remained for us to be fully visible without headlamps. Taking boats out of the water seemed a little harder than putting in because of the slippery rocks, but everyone on these trips always helps everyone and no one is the worse for wear. The whole group seemed to have a great time, thanks to organizers from Blackstone Valley Paddlers and RI Blueways. We even passed by one of the gondolas out for a spin.
Most of this paddle is easy enough for anyone to do. The open-water crossing can be scary for new paddlers, who may want to practice their rough-water handling skills ahead of time. Tides and winds should be checked beforehand. Evenings are great for this trip but care must be taken to finish long before dark. Twilight is not the time to be crossing in open water nor trying to find the take-out, which has no illumination of its own. One could easily smash into the wooden pilings without ever seeing them. Your Examiner would love to try this trip during Gallery Night or any big summer festival; of course, only official volunteers are permitted on the water during WaterFire (but kayaking then would be really fun too).
Both the Blackstone and Blueways groups have a lot more great paddles coming up. Your Examiner can attest that both groups are made up of friendly folks who are always fun to paddle with. Don't waste another minute, get out there with us!
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