Paso Robles wine country

September 28, 1:53 PMInternational Wine ExaminerKevin Lynch

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The term California wine immediately takes most of our minds straight to Napa/Sonoma. Visions of big, golden hills dotted with gnarled oaks and valley floors covered in neat rows of vines fill the mind’s eye. Thoughts of bombastic red wines and memories of lush whites return. So do memories of giant dinner tabs, fat hotel bills and insanely greedy wine tasting fees. (Anyone who expects or wants free wine is nuts but whacking people $20 or more bucks for a few dribbles of wine seems pretty outrageous, too.)

Perhaps it’s time to rethink the term California wine, to broaden the scoop, enlarge the field of vision. Looking south, between LA and San Francisco is the fastest growing wine region in the state: Paso Robles. Home to nearly 140 wineries that grow over 40 varietals the Paso Robles wine region offers wine country experiences that rival those of the northern wine areas. There is a noticeable lack pretension here. Costs are lower across the board, though the $100 dollar bottle is not rare. Best of all, especially now, in the middle of harvest, the area is far less crowded.

Which is all well and good, but what about the wine?

California, no matter where one travels, makes distinctive wines and Paso Robles is no different in this regard. Next visit to the region try these wines or visit the wineries.

 Justin Vineyards and Winery

These guys have been on a roll since the 80's with their first release of the Isosceles. There wines are Bordeaux blends and 100% varietal. Given their success and high demand their wines are a bit more pricey but they are exceptional. They offer tastings and winery/cave tours. There are accommodations on the grounds, lunches available in their deli. The bistro is open most weekends. 

Brian Benson Cellars

Like many winemakers in California Benson Cellars excels in bold, juicy wines.  Brian uses the word "intense." Unlike a lot of other wineries his approach is a little more hip. The art of Keith Weesner is on the walls, Even the wine labels, made by Roth Originals are uber-cool. (For those of a certain age you will recognize these illustrations, think of monsters with leering grins, drooling, driving exaggerated race cars.)

Lone Madrone

Sustainable, organic, small production. Lone Madorne is one of those wineries that is small, emphasizes quality over quantity yet throws a wide variety of wines at you, take the wine label above, a Zinfandel and Barbera blend.

Tablas Creek

This venture, that started with an idea in the 70's, broke ground in the 80's and has been making stellar wine since had an enviable pedigree before the first bottle was corked. A collaboration between the Perrin brothers of Chateau Beaucastel and mega-successful wine importer and founder of Vineyard Brands, Robert Haas, Tablas Creek has been making Rhone-style wines that rival Rhone itself.

Native Food & Wine -- visits the Santa Monica Farmer's Market and is in Paso Robles this week.

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