Best walleye in the neighborhood

October 6, 12:24 PMSouth St. Paul ExaminerRob Shirk

Previous Next

1 comment Print Email RSS Subscribe

Subscribe

Get alerts when there is a new article from the South St. Paul Examiner. Read Examiner.com's terms of use.

Email Address   Include other special offers from Examiner.com Terms of Use

                              Tavern On Grand

It is an almost impossible task to give an award for "Best Walleye". It is not like giving an award for beer or coffee shops for there is no great emotion imbued with Starbucks or Budweiser. Any tried and true fisherman in the lakes region lays claim to not only the best spot to catch 'em, but also, and more importantly, how to cook 'em. We argue, yell, and fight about braggin' rights.

Many claim that to order walleye in a restaurant  is very close to Original Sin. The Examiner, however, is a part of the media and in giving out these observations I'm not sure that Shari wants a couple of hundred people over to her place for dinner so we'll stick to the eateries and keep her house out of it.

Tavern on Grand, 656 Grand Avenue St. Paul, MN (651) 228-9030

Tavern on Grand is located close enough to the capitol building that it attracts a lot of the suits from there for lunch. Pan fried, broiled, or deep fried, you just can't go wrong. Set in a north woodsy cabin decor with a big ol' neon walleye on the front window, the place just screams Minnesota. When Michail Gorbachev visited the Twin Cities a number of years ago he had lunch here. I figure that if it's good enough for the architect of Glasnost it's good enough for me. By far, it's the most recommended place for walleye on the east side of The Cities.

Jensen's Supper Club 3840 Sibley Memorial Hwy. Eagan, MN (651) 688-7969

Jensen's really is a restaurant with an extensive offering which is maybe why they're not mentioned as much as others. Still, when an entrée is framed right in the middle of the menu it goes to figure that they are are particularly proud and they should be. Parmesean Walleye is something you just do not bump into every day. Their sautéed fillet is dreamy but if you want to fish outside the box, try the Parmesean. Garlic rules!

DeGidio's Restaurant  425 7th St.W. St. Paul, MN (651) 291-7105

It's rare to be at a table where a guy can order mostaccioli right next to the woman requesting walleye broiled in white wine. It's not unusual to have it happen, daily, at DeGidio's. If white wine is a little bit on the frou-frou side for you, get the 10 oz. fillet that is hand breaded or pecan crusted. That'll get you in tune with your inner Minnesotan. Hey, Paison! Pass the chianti and the tartar sauce!

Wild Onion 788 Grand Ave St Paul, MN (651) 291-2525

Known just as The Onion in the neighborhood it is more of a sports bar kind of place, and their walleye reflects that casual atmosphere. If you want nothing more than a good walleye sandwich then belly on up to the bar and get a handful. If you'd rather just watch the game but could use a little something on the side, the walleye fingers along with a cold one is about as satisfying as it gets.

Axel's River Grill 1318 Sibley Memorial Hwy Mendota, MN (651) 686-4840

Of the five restaurants listed, this is the most up-scale of the group. Located in the old Parker House in the villiage of Mendota, it oozes history as well as fine dining. If you'd prefer to not watch TV or have the live band playing, this is for you. Self-described "for the discerning diner", Axel's features walleye although it is, by all appearances, a steak house. It is a fish in cattle's clothing, perhaps. Although it's not prominitly displayed or advertised, the walleye is just about as good as it gets.

Dining with walleye is not for the faint of heart. It is always expensive no matter where you go so if a thrifty meal is what you're after, forget it when you go for this particular entrée. A lot of people swear that it's cheaper to catch their own and they may be right but I'm new to the game so I started to figure it out. I began with the trailer, adding the boat, the motor, buying the equipment, gas, license, and so on. Even for those who already have those things it costs a lot, much less buying it all at once. But I don't know that it's all that important. When it comes to walleye, cost is not the mitigating factor.