Culver City Restaurant Review: Beacon

October 7, 6:37 AMCulver City Restaurant ExaminerMary McGrath

Previous Next

1 comment Print Email RSS Subscribe

Subscribe

Get alerts when there is a new article from the Culver City Restaurant Examiner. Read Examiner.com's terms of use.

Email Address   Include other special offers from Examiner.com Terms of Use

Black Cod-photo by Mary McGrath

Once upon a time, there were just a few fine restaurants that helped put Culver City on the map. One of them was Beacon, saddled on the corner of the Helms Bakery complex on Washington Blvd. Since then, lots of competition has come into town, and fickle foodies, forever on the prowl for the next best thing, have migrated west to downtown Culver City. But, let’s not forget those who started this culinary trend. Beacon is one of these places, and for good reason.

Like a truly beautiful woman, Beacon is a place that doesn’t readily call attention to itself. Beacon’s like an exotic flower that blooms ever so slightly, and when it does, you notice its wonder, its fragrance, and pure simple elegance.

Thanks to executive chef, Kazuto Matsusaka, whose resume includes such places as Ma Maison, L’Ermitage, Spago, and Chinois on Main, the eloquence of his dishes shines through. As one of the pioneers of Asian fusion, he even worked in France with his wife Vicki Fan, who has cooking accolades of her own, along with an impressive resume in hospitality management. The two have paired their talents into a stable of innovative offerings that has kept Beacon going strong for five years.

This place sports two patios, one which is adjacent to the expansion out front. Construction is nearly complete in the Helms complex, with the front area morphing into more of a promenade, make the Helms complex more of a walking street. This is great for these restaurants that are off the beaten path of downtown Culver City, giving visitors a reason to dawdle, shop, or enjoy the nearby art scene.

The vibe inside the restaurant is progressive, with modern earth tones throughout. As for the food, it’s fantastic, subtle, with just enough flair to inspire interpretation.

If you’ve never been to Beacon, go for the Black Cod. This is the second time I’ve had this dish, and it’s a winner, marinated in a delicious miso sauce, and paired with sesame green beans. It rivals that of Roy’s, and perhaps might even be a bit better.

Lighter offerings include their Organic Miso Soup and their Kaki Fry, featuring crispy oysters, braced in lettuce cups with a Yuzu tartar sauce. Eat it like a sandwich, then beg for more.

My pal loved their Miso Braised Shortribs. The adjacent veggies were almost enough to convert me to vegetarianism, especially the squash, splashed with a bit of the miso sauce.

The best way to enjoy Beacon is by ordering several small bites and sharing, but there’s a pre-fix menu also available for $26, featuring a choice of appetizers, a main course and dessert. If the quality of these offerings is anything like what we had this evening, then I’ll be back for that.

Beacon
3280 Helms Ave.
LA. 90034
(310) 838-7500

http://www.beacon-la.com/