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Nicaragua's Golden Route to Rio San Juan

November 6, 1:24 PMInternational Travel ExaminerRita Cook
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Looking for world-class fishing, historical battle sites and unexplored rainforest, then add Rio San Juan in Nicaragua to your to do list.   It’s a region rich with historic tales and ancient struggles and bordering Costa Rica to the East this area has definitely seen its fair share of pirates, battles and entrepreneurs. For big-time adventurers you will find some of the world's largest tarpon, weighing in at over 400 pounds, alongside Howler and Spider Monkeys, jaguars, anteaters and more in the largest uninterrupted stretch of rainforest north of the AmazonBasin.
 
Connecting the Caribbean Sea to Central America's largest lake, Lake Nicaragua, Rio San Juan has been considered on more than one occasion as a possible site for what is now the Panama Canal. Its start in Lake Nicaragua is guarded by the Solentiname Archipelago, a 36-island chain formed by the eruptions of nearby volcanoes, while the river's entrance to the Caribbean Sea is a tantalizing tangle of smaller streams and estuaries. Spanish explorers first discovered the river's outlet to the sea in 1525 and immediately became aware of the importance of controlling all access to the massive lake. Used as a major trade connection for Granada, Havana and Cartagena de Indias, Rio San Juan caught the attention of 16th century pirates in search of treasures and prisoners.
 
Today, what is known as the "Golden Route" as locals know it is a top destination for travelers looking to explore untouched forest and ancient towns. Tours are offered starting in San Carlos, the town located at the river's start on Lake Nicaragua, and continue to different points along the river. Two large natural reserves, Los Guatuzos and Esperanza Verde (Green Hope), offer hiking trails, lodging, dining and ecological centers. More popular and much larger, is the Indio Maiz Biological Reserve, named after two smaller rivers that run through it. In the surrounding tropical rainforest it isn't uncommon to find turtles, crocodiles, manatees and jaguar. Various populations of migratory birds and indigenous monkeys can also be heard in the treetops.
 
Stepping back in time is easily done while floating down the Rio San Juan. The historical village of El Castillo, named after a famous Spanish fortress built in colonial times, was a notorious stomping ground for Spanish conquerors and buccaneer pirates. Boat tours drop explorers off at the village's port, where they can interact with the community and ascend the ancient military fortress for a sprawling view of the surrounding forest. El Castillo's interior is now a historical museum with a small library conserving the fortress' past. Horseback tours, canoe trips and rainforest hikes are all available from this colonial village.
 
For more information on how to get there consider plane, boat or automobile. Daily flights fly from Managua to San Carlos and take 45 minutes. By boat, a ferry runs from Granada with stops at a few other islands along the way taking about 12 hours. If you want to drive consider a four-wheel drive vehicle, especially during the rainy season. The drive takes about nine hours from Managua.
 
Where to stay
 
MonteCristoRiver Lodge:  Monte Cristo is an eco-tourism lodge boasting trophy-sized tarpon and one-of-a-kind views of the rare Macua bird. Visit www.montecristoriver.com for more information.
 
Sabalos Lodge: Located along the banks of Rio San Juan, Sabalos Lodge features riverside hammocks for lazy days in the tropics and rainforest dips under trees filled with whiteface monkeys. Visit www.sabaloslodge.com for more information.

South American Fiesta (www.southamericanfiesta.com) and Kaiyote Tours (www.kaiyotetours.com) both offer tours to Rio San Juan.

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