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"Suits; Do's and Don'ts"
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Correct way to wear a casual suit
For some reason, most guys disregard the rules of fit when it comes to suits. Either it's a comfort before fashion mentality or simply willful ignorance that causes guys to leave the house wearing suits that are sloppy and ill fitting. The most tragic and repeat offender is called "the box". The shoulder pads extend well beyond the edges of the shoulders, the sleeves droop over the hands, the jacket swims halfway past the knees, and the pants fit like pajamas. How this even passes for a suit these days is beyond understanding. The point is, however, never to be caught in the box.
Here are 5 rules that will help trim the box.
1. The sleeves should hit right at the wrists, about a half an inch above the shirt cuff. The pants should have a slight break in the front and the back of the leg should fall right where the top of the shoe heel meets the leather.
2. If the armholes are a little too high and tight, a tailor can get more room. However, if the bottom of the arm opening is too low and baggy, it really can't be brought up.
3. Avoid the "rollout", fabric that gathers where the collar and body meet. This is a result of off-the-rack suits that are cut with a slightly sloped shoulder.
4. The middle of the suit is a crucial fit. When the jacket is buttoned, give it a tug away from the body and it should only be about 2 inches of room.
5. Standing with arms at the sides, curl the fingers around the bottom edge of the jacket. If it's the right length, the lip should fall just between the first and second knuckles.
Banana Republic, Calvin Klein, and J. Crew are a few designers that make great fitting suits with reasonable prices.
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