Burning up the barbecue

June 29, 4:07 PMPhoenix Mexican Food ExaminerSunny Conley

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Courtesy photo Nicolas Raymond.

The days of innocent finger licking while savoring grilled meats slathered in barbecue sauce ended several years ago. Many sauces today are infused with hot and sassy chile. In the past, barbecue sauce was predictable. Traditional sauce was mostly prepared with six main ingredients: tomatoes, onion, mustard, garlic, and brown sugar offering a palate-manageable, sweet taste. Later, the Rolodex of ingredients expanded, and beer or wine gave the sauce a spirited kick.

But finger lickin’ had never been an exhilarating experience until chile made its debut as a significant ingredient. The chile pod shows up everywhere these days as an addition to conventional recipes not just in barbecue sauces but also in rubs, bastes, and marinades. And the adopted chile is not always of the mild variety. Grocery store shelves and e-commerce sites are now stocked with barbecue condiments that sizzle with the effects of specialty chiles like jalapeño and habanero. Finger licking has become taste bud challenging, and the heat goes on. As baby boomers’ taste bud acuity wanes, chile marches in with just the right jolt.

Andrew Jepson, former president of the National Barbecue Association, says, "habanero sauces are for fanatics that seek a more concentrated heat level. But generally, people are looking for a chile specific flavor without all that heat. Rather, they’re seeking "a rich, unique middle-of-the-road chile flavor – a harmonious balance that isn’t too hot" such as those inoculated with ancho and poblano chiles to please the masses. The extra zip brings out the flavors and taste of the meat." (Chipotle sauce blended with berries, especially raspberry, is a favorite and “offers a sweet heat [taste], says Jepson.)

Chile macho is simply the latest trend in the barbecue culture. "I find the barbecue business absolutely fascinating," observes Ann Wilder, president of Vanns Ltd. Spices (vannspices.com) located in Baltimore. The 20-year-old plus company offers "a world of spices" that includes a variety of chiles. Wilder explains that most of her career was spent "in fine foods. Then I got caught up in the barbecue business. It’s a culture of which most people aren’t aware." And, according to Wilder, barbecue "is for all walks of life." She recalls one of her first barbecue judging contests. "Sitting at my table were movie stars, linemen, and ditch diggers. No one gave a damn who the other person was as long as they knew their barbecue," laughs Wilder.

Chile, Wilder continues, is the biggest secret in a rub. No one can figure out anyone’s recipe because each uses a variety of chiles that comes from different places. She did, however, share that the award-winning Trim Tabbs Pig Powder Dry Rub, which her company sells, contains "mainly ancho chile – I think. Ancho tends to be a favorite base for rubs. So does pasilla and chipotle. Chipotle isn’t just for barbecues; it’s also used in the fine food industry. It has a delicious smoked flavor."

Wilder theorizes that in the early 1980s people became more aware of spices because of their travels. "They weren’t just going to Europe any more. They were traveling to Asia, Central America, and South America, spicy places they hadn’t been. After sampling their recipes, they wanted to duplicate them back home." And when Americans began worrying about their bulging bellies they turned to spices to beef up bland dishes. "Spices like chile," she continued, "don’t contain fat. People are willing to eat smaller portions only if that portion really tastes wonderful. They’re interested in big flavors and chile offers that."

Karen Adler, publisher of Pig Out Publications (pigoutpublications.com), Kansas City, Missouri, says that many immigrants from the Caribbean, Central America, and Mexico have also contributed to the growth of the fiery foods industry. "During the late 1980s in the Midwest, we started seeing jalapeño peppers in grocery stores. Then in the ‘90s the stores began selling a variety of peppers. As more and more people become knowledgeable about chile, says Adler, they are adding the pungent fruit to their recipes, including barbecue sauces, relishes and chutney. Hotter chiles work best in America’s traditional barbecue, she says, "because they are sweet and contain brown sugar and molasses sauces. Sweet counteracts the heat in hot peppers."

Newbies to the art of grilling and barbecuing should check “For Beginners” at barbecuen.com.

The Ugly Brothers Raspberry and Chipotle Sauce
(Winner of the 1999 California State Championship Tri-Tip)

18 ounces Hunts BBQ Sauce
16 ounces Knotts seedless Raspberry Preserves
8 ounces white vinegar
6 chipotle peppers canned in adobo sauce
3 tablespoons garlic, peeled and crushed
½ stick sweet butter

Mix all over low-med heat and simmer until all ingredients are well mixed. This sauce is sweet and hot so you don’t need too much! (Recipe from uglybrothers.net)