
The 138th British Open golf champship will be played this week, July 16-19, on one of the most spectacular of all Scottish links layouts––the Alisa Course at Turnberry, in Ayrshire, Scotland. The coastal setting is ruggedly beautiful, with the Arran mountains looming above the Firth of Clyde. Looming 16 miles out in the Atlantic is the Ailsa Craig, arising like a conical hat 1,000 feet out of the water. Locals say, "If you can’t see the Ailsa Craig, then it’s raining. And if you can see it, then it’s about to rain."
The forecast for the Open this week is for overcast, wind and some rain. As the Scots say, “If there’s nae wind, it’s nae golf.” Never was that more true than during the first cold, blustery day of the 1986 Open when no player scored under par. Greg Norman managed to post a 63 in the second round and won. Tom Watson bested the field in 1977, while Nick Price eagled a 50-foot putt on seventeen to win in 1994.
The renowned estates manager, George Brown, and his greenskeepers, have been improving the Alisa, which has been closed since last November. The track was lengthened 247 yards, and 6 new tees and 21 new fairway bunkers were added. Knee-high in heather and dotted with ball-grabbing gorse, nearly half of the holes run, treeless and duneless, along the Firth of Clyde and are open to the fearsome moods of the sea. The landmark on the 9th fairway is a 100-foot lighthouse built in 1873, and nearby are the ruins of a castle inhabited by Robert the Bruce, King of Scotland in the early 14th century.
Unlike most Scottish links layouts, which are rather flat, Alisa sports large, duney mounds and oceans of undulations, creating a number of blind shots. The brisk breezes are at your back on the way out, in your teeth on the return. The 10th is a monster, a 452-yard dogleg left bordering the sea and imperiled by a monumental bunker with a domed piece of turf in the middle. Another famous hole, “Wee Burn” calls for a carry of 250 yards to a green surrounded by Wilson’s Burn. Make the green or watch your ball slide away into the creek; long-handled ball retrievers are thoughtfully provided.

The biggest changes that have readied the Alisa for the 2009 Open are on the three finishing holes. The 16th fairway was realigned to create a more challenging approach to a green protected by a deep burn (a stream). The 17th, one of the course’s two par-5s and in the past considered an eagle opportunity, has been lengthened to about 560 yards. And, the tee was moved on the 18th, creating a right-to-left dogleg sure to result in final hole drama.
The Turnberry Golf Club was founded in 1902, when "Fernie of Troon" was commissioned by the 3rd Marquess of Alisa to lay out a course for guests at the Turnberry Hotel, which opened in 1906. Fernie was the professional of Troon Golf Club (later to become Royal Troon) and he had won the Open Championship at Musselburgh in 1883. His letterhead described him as “Champion Golfer 1883, winner of 22 first class tournaments and practical golf club and ball maker”.
In World Wars I and II, concrete was laid on the fairways, transforming them into runways for RAF planes. In 1951, it reopened with a glorious redesign by famed Scottish course architect, Phillip Mackenzie Ross, in time to host the 106th British Open.
Stay tuned here for:
a review of the Turnberry Resort, headquarters for the British Open
the first British Open, in 1860
golf in Southwest Scotland
the Colin Montgomery Links Golf Academy