A slice of America: The Colorado Plateau -- Canyonlands/Needles

August 2, 12:58 PMPhoenix Four Corners Travel ExaminerEric Toll

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All photos courtesy of the National Park Service

Seeing the American western landscape in nearly unscathed form is one of the benefits of visiting Canyonlands Needles District. Named for the sandstone spires of red, cream, and brown, a visit to this area south of Moab, Utah, results in rewarding views. Needles offers more than 50 miles of challenging back country roads for high clearance four wheel drive vehicles. Some roads, when passable, go nearly to the Colorado River. More than 60 miles of backcountry trails await the really adventuresome.

Needles offers paved access to the Big Spring Canyon Overlook and Squaw Flat Campground. Four wheel drive roads for high clearance vehicles can provide access to near the Colorado River, the Peek-a-boo petroglyphs, and several other geologic sites. Needles is a great place for those interested in geology and archaeology. Its fewer visitors, unique spires, and general isolation offer solitude, extraordinary night skies, and dedicated canyon visitors.

Several short hikes are available from paved roads providing access to archaeological sites with abandoned structures built by the ancient Pueblo tribes—sometimes called “the Anasazi.” The “easy”-rated Roadside Ruin is a twenty minute round-trip hike to an ancestral Puebloan granary. The moderate-rated Cave Spring and Pothole Point trails take about 45 minutes round-trip. The former requires navigating two ladders and leads to a historic cowboy camp and prehistoric pictographs. The latter is uneven surface, and leads to pothole biotic communities and outstanding views. The two-hour round trip Slickrock Trail is moderately strenuous, and includes wildlife viewing opportunities—particularly big horn sheep.

The backcountry hikes are more strenuous and take from three to seven hours, depending on the selected route. Each trail has its viewing and natural features—arches, fault lines, river overlooks, petroglyphs, and other features. Topo maps and compasses are absolute necessities, as GPS receivers work poorly in canyons. Despite its weight, carrying lots of water is recommended along with an emergency overnight kit.

The drive is the challenge on the miles of backcountry four-wheel drive roads. The Park Service has significant warnings recommending tools, one or more spare tires, and an ability to keep the vehicle running. Permits are required, and so is great caution. Canyon-bottom roads are very sandy, cross steep creek banks, and have quicksand. Some of the 4WD roads are unsuitable for mountain bikes because of the deep sand and danger from quicksand.

Needles is a rugged district with a taste of the American West as it was seen by the first explorers. A common sense and self-sufficiency are necessary for any forays into this district. For the casual visitor, Island in the Sky is the best district to visit. The Maze is rugged, unexplored America for the most experienced back country traveler.

Needles district is located about 40 miles south of Moab off US 191. Take Utah 211 west 34 miles to the Needles Visitor Center. Bring plenty of water and snacks.