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Beer of the Week: 21st Amendment Hell or High Watermelon Wheat

July 1, 9:21 AMSeattle Craft Beer ExaminerHelen Pitlick
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21st Amendment Hell of High Watermelon
Hell or High Watermelon Wheat

Summer has a few givens: shorts, sunburn (inevitably), watermelon, and beer. Hell or High Watermelon Wheat from San Francisco's 21st Amendment Brewery combines two of these delightful traditions: it's beer brewed with actual watermelon juice. Before you start thinking "Jolly Rancher in a can," know this: Draft Magazine named it the best canned beer in America in 2008.

Despite this prestigious designation, most casual observers view the combination of beer and watermelon as "weird." Take for instance, my conversation with the cashier when buying the beer:

Cashier: Watermelon Wheat beer- this must be new. Weird.
Me: Yeah, Draft Magazine rated it the best canned beer in America, so I had to try it.
Cashier: Uhh... cool

or with the woman (also named Helen) at the take-out place I visited next, six-pack in tow:

Helen: Huh- watermelon wheat beer; sounds weird.
Me: Yeah, Draft Magazine rated it the best canned beer in America, so I had to try it.
Helen: Still sounds weird.

Perhaps it's the watermelon, perhaps it's the can that creates skepticism. Unconventional packaging appears to be part of the 21st Amendment brand: not only does their beer come in cans (crazy!), but the brewery packages their six-packs in a cardboard box (wild!) instead of attaching them with turtle-killing plastic rings.

But enough hype. The beer pours cloudy and yellow with a thick head that dissipates quickly and leaves no lacing. The aroma does not imply that this is anything other than a classic wheat beer: it's a little malty, but mostly smells of cereal. A first sip, it has an obvious watermelon taste, though the grain flavors are also evident; the watermelon becomes less pronounced as you drink, though come out again in the finish. Instead of being candy-sweet as anticipated, the beer is slightly sour and a little tart. The mouthfeel is watery and light, making Hell or High Watermelon is a great match for summer salads. All in all, an enjoyable beer, and certainly a perfect beverage for Fourth of July celebrations this weekend.

My drinking companion's take? "Weird."

Intrigued?  Up until recently, 21st Amendment beer was only available in California and Alaska. I picked mine up at the Whole Foods on Westlake.

 Want more Seattle craft beer information? Follow me on Twitter at Mmm_beer.

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