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Café Review: Paradiso (North End)
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Viva Italia.
To visit Café Paradiso is to be transported in spirit to Italy itself. I’ve described cafés (and, indeed, coffee) as European-styled before on this examiner page, but that’s not the word for Paradiso, which, like much of the North End is distinctly Italian.
It’s easy to get caught up in the atmosphere of this small café, bar and eatery. Soccer pennants adorn the rafters, relaxed patrons clog the modest floor space, Italian phrases escape the lips of the wait staff and bartenders from behind a green marble countertop. There’s a TV in the back which plays nothing but international soccer as far as I can tell. I was also lucky enough to witness what I can only describe as a spontaneous Joe Pesci impersonation.
The food and drink, too, is characteristically Italian: espresso, gelato, traditional pastries, prepared sandwiches and favorites like pizza. The bar was impressive, as was the coffee bar. Unlike other bars in the city where coffee is an afterthought, Paradiso offers real, craft espresso drinks; nothing is automatic. Still, the Café Americano I had there was good, but not great. I also partook in a slice of pizza, cut square in the popular Roman style, served hot and loaded with toppings. It was delicious and filling, and the entire tab, coffee and pizza, came to around $7, a very good deal for food in the North End.
Service was good. My barista/bartender (fittingly the same thing here), noticed a spot on my glass and replaced it before making my drink. This might seem like a little thing, but it shows the staff is paying attention and cares about service.
Although big on atmosphere, the café was a little small on seating. Tables are crowded in together and barely big enough for two, so if you’re in a group of friends larger than three, I would recommend choosing another place to stop. If you’re on a date, however, and you want to impress your significant other, a quick stop for coffee, drinks, or gelato at Paradiso will go a long way.
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