Celery root: when taste trumps looks

October 30, 12:17 AMFood ExaminerEric Burkett

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Not much to look at but lots of personality.

To call it ungainly is a compliment, but celery root – or more accurately, celeriac – is one of the joys of the cooler months.

Vaguely reminiscent of a rutabaga with a gland condition and bad skin, celery root has a strong flavor similar to celery. That’s hardly a surprise considering how closely related they are, but celery root doesn’t produce the celery you’re used to seeing in the produce section. If you buy one with the greens attached, cut them off and discard them.

As for utility, you can’t go wrong with this vegetable. Wonderful raw or cooked, it can be added to soups, roasted with other root vegetables, pureed, used raw in salads, or – one of my favorites – added to mashed potatoes. Celery root can vary in size from apples to melons. Good celery root is firm, and heavy with moisture. Pass over any roots with soft spots.

To take full advantage of its flavor, try my celery root slaw. A food processor is helpful with this recipe as there’s a lot of shredding and a regular box grater may remove more of your knuckles than you really want to part with.

1 medium celery root, peeled and shredded
¼ head green cabbage, shredded fine
½ large red onion, shredded
3 stalks of celery, leaves removed, shredded
1 firm apple (such as Granny Smith or Asian pear), skin on, shredded
1 cup mayonnaise
1 tsp coarse Dijon mustard
2 tbsp apple cider vinegar
2 tbsp apple juice or cider
1 tsp sugar
¼ cup chopped parsley
White pepper and Kosher salt to taste
Juice of half a lemon, added to a large bowl of water. As you shred the celery root and apple, place them in the water to avoid discoloration, and then drain off, squeezing out the excess moisture when you’re ready to combine the ingredients.

• Combine the shredded ingredients in a large bowl, tossing them to mix them thoroughly.
• In a separate bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise with the mustard, vinegar, apple juice, and sugar until they form a smooth sauce.
• Pour the dressing over the shredded vegetables, and add the parsley as well as the salt and white pepper.
• Stir until the vegetables are thoroughly coated, and serve chilled.